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Barfly: Lincoln's Inn

Back in the day, Lincoln's Inn apparently offered credit to loyal customers. Nowadays, you can avail of the next best thing: some of the cheaper pints to be had in central Dublin.

That's as bargain basement as it gets, however. A lovingly restored Victorian bar, the Lincoln is divided into two halves, one dominated by high tables and stools, the other given over to tables and chairs. As you'd expect, the ambiance tends to be louder in the stool/standing area, especially at weekends when it attracts a surprisingly substantial flock of regular patrons.

Inevitably, a flat-screen television ruins the illusion of old-school luxury, though at least it's on a retractable stand so that they can put it away when the 'big match' isn't on. Granted, there is little to distinguish Lincoln's Inn from any other upwardly mobile Dublin boozer with its eye on the afterwork office brigade.

Also, the selection of brews is decidedly ho-hum. Still, for a premises adjoining a major university, it is mercifully free of messy students and their hilarious drinking games. And what it lacks in personality it makes up for in value. The way the country is right now, that reads like a stonking recommendation.

It the glass: Pint of stout €4, pint of lager €4

At the bar: After-office crowd, discussing Wayne Rooney

On the stereo: Inoffensive indie rock

And? Disappointingly, wi-fi was not available on our visit

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