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Monday 22 September 2014

Michelle opens new costume centre

Published 05/05/2014 | 16:17

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First lady Michelle Obama opened the new Anna Wintour Costume Centre

Michelle Obama, one of the most fashion-conscious first ladies in decades, joined a who's who of designers as she cut the ribbon at the Metropolitan Museum's new costume centre.

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With Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Donatella Versace, Carolina Herrera, Marc Jacobs, Victoria Beckham, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and other fashion luminaries in attendance, the first lady launched the museum's new 40 million dollar (£23.7m) Anna Wintour Costume Centre, named for the editor of Vogue magazine.

"I'm here today because of Anna," said Mrs Obama. "I'm so impressed by Anna's contributions not just to fashion but to this great museum. This centre is for anyone who cares about fashion and how it impacts our culture and our history."

Mrs Obama, known for her personal style, wore a forest-green silk organza dress with three-quarter sleeves for the occasion, designed by Naeem Khan.

She said the centre would teach young people "that fashion is not just a business but an art" and that it would "be a source of learning and inspiration" for all ages.

She said she and Ms Wintour are working to bring students to the White House for a fashion workshop.

Others at the event included Tory Burch, Zac Posen, Ralph Lauren, Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen of The Row, Reed Krakoff, Prabal Gurung and the Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte.

Mrs Obama was not expected to attend the Met's annual Costume Institute gala tonight, which typically attracts celebrities and Hollywood A-listers.

The museum opens a new exhibit to the public on Thursday featuring the work of Briton Charles James, who died in 1978. Although James' name is not well-known to the general public, he's revered by fashion industry insiders and designers.

Through his complex, innovative work from the 1930s through the 1950s, he designed dresses of stunning glamour that often resembled sculptures more than mere garments. His clients included Gypsy Rose Lee, Marlene Dietrich and Mrs William Randolph Hearst Jr. His clothes - revolutionary in their time - had a huge influence on modern fashion. Christian Dior called him "the greatest talent of my generation."

The show, "Charles James: Beyond Fashion," emphasises technology. In a large ground-floor gallery, animated videos illustrate how each gown was constructed, from the original piece of fabric to the intricate completed garment.

A 1938 black gown in silk faille, one of the first strapless gowns to be made in the 1930s, is called the "Umbrella" evening dress because the folds of its skirt, structured with silk-encased "ribs," resemble a folded umbrella.

A 1932 knee-length black dress is called the "Taxi Dress" because, James used to say, it was so easy to put on you could do it in a taxi - it was basically an early wrap dress. A 1933 black satin cocktail dress features an early use of a zipper seam. A "Ribbon Dressing Gown" is made entirely of ribbons of different widths, in peach, gold, yellow and ivory silk satin. The shape of the gown is formed not with seams and darts, but merely by varying the width of the ribbons.

James even designed the first elegant puffer jacket. Only one of them was made, said curator Harold Koda, and it was passed around among his fans and clients.

But James was most proud of his striking 1953 "Clover Dress" in white satin and black velvet, with a full, sculptured skirt formed with four distinct "lobes" - like a clover. The gown's wide skirt never touches the ground - it is meant to lift up on the dance floor and create a gliding effect. Met curators commissioned a full recreation of the dress so that they could better understand how it moved and what it was like to wear.

One room of the exhibit is devoted not to gowns but to biographical items, such as hats, which were James' earliest designs - he started as a milliner in the 1920s _, as well as prototypes for jewellery and typewritten notes that display his rather mercurial and demanding work style. One of the notes lists celebrities James hadn't dressed, but wanted to, including rockers Sir Mick Jagger - whom he calls "a sexy bastard" - David Bowie and Lou Reed.

James was born in England, but came to the United States at the age 18, first to Chicago. He later centered his business in New York, catering to well-known socialites of the day.

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