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Sunday 21 September 2014

Philo brings 'bourgeois elegance' to new Celine collection

Thomas Adamson Paris

Published 01/10/2012 | 05:00

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In her spring-summer 2013 collection, designer Phoebe Philo continued the spirit of her alarmingly simple trademark statement.

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Three years after the debut of Celine, she delivered a new collection that is characterised by subtle, bourgeois elegance evoked in softly architectural silhouettes.

Spring is about gentle contradictions, not colour, she seemed to say. This was shown in the collection through a muted palette of black, white, navy and gray.

Silhouettes

The real point of the show, however, was the gentle play of contrasting lines, then textures, then form.

Loosely hanging silhouettes -- often with attention to neck details in high necks, bands and twists -- came in column or boxy shapes.

There were a couple of black A-line tuxedo-dresses for good measure.

The gloss of sheeny silks whispered a contrast against matte fabric.

Philo has often been noted for her chic 'utilitarian tailoring', which she delivers with uncanny ease.

Artistic

Here we saw it used artistically in hemline frays which turned into tassels, and twisted fabric that wrapped round the back sewn crudely together in a lump.

It's a style that wouldn't look out of place on Juliette Binoche, for example.

When the French actress accepted her best-actress award at the Cannes Film Festival in 2010, she was dressed in custom Celine.

The house is right in fancying itself as the Paris calendar's arty side.

When fashion insiders asked to see the mandatory programme notes, there were wry smiles as they were handed a text-free book of collage pictures.

Irish Independent

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