Saturday 21 October 2017

Issey nails colours to Paris mast

Thomas Adamson Paris

Issey Miyake cast a few minutes of sunshine over a grey Paris sky with an autumn/winter 2013-14 show that was brimming with colour.

Checkered patterns added to the fun, and it was invigorating to see them on models who actually smiled as they walked.

The show's inspiration, said designer Yoshiyuke Miyamae, "comes from landscape seen from the sky."

Optical crisscrosses created great dynamic movements on stretch fabric, as he imagined an aerial view of a dense forest. Colours of the '80s such as rich ultramarine, vivid jade and vermilion evoked the hues.

Miyamae spoke of "what you see from a plane, when sunshine lights up the land".

That made for some beautiful knee-length coats.

Not all of the 42 looks worked, however. Some came across as busy, especially toward the end, when faux-fur was added to the repertoire. But the mastery of tonal colour really stole the show.

Tops saw colours blocked together in changing intensities. Discordant colours such as green with high tonal turquoise stand-out pockets showed a true flair.

Irish Independent

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