New York Fashion Week

Sunday 31 August 2014

Prabal Gurung's 'secluded kingdom' inspiration

Published 10/02/2014 | 14:46

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A model wears designs by Prabal Gurung during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014 shows on February 8, 2014 in New York.    AFP PHOTO/Don Emmert        (Photo credit should read DON EMMERT/AFP/Getty Images)
A model wears designs by Prabal Gurung during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A model wears designs by Prabal Gurung during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014 shows on February 8, 2014 in New York.   AFP PHOTO/Don Emmert        (Photo credit should read DON EMMERT/AFP/Getty Images)
A model wears designs by Prabal Gurung during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014 shows
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 08:  A model walks the runway at Prabal Gurung during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at Skylight at Moynihan Station on February 8, 2014 in New York City.  (Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at Prabal Gurung during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at Skylight at Moynihan Station

Prabal Gurung's latest collection was inspired by a "secluded kingdom" he visited.

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The designer debuted his Fall/Winter 14 line at New York Fashion Week over the weekend. Layering was the key, with lambswool coats worn with chiffon skirts and several knits teamed over each other then topped off with fluffy gilets.

The designer came up with the idea after he visited Mustang in the Himalayas, which only allowed foreign visitors in after 1992.

"[It's a] secluded kingdom," the Nepalese designer explained to style.com. "What I really loved about the whole place was the incredible colours and incredible way of dressing - it's almost like sportswear, because they have to layer everything."

Prabal stuck to warm colours like orange and red, with silk another of the key fabrics. Many of his pieces were wrapped around the body to give more layers, with the final featuring several evening dresses which dropped to the floor with full skirts and had cut-out body panels.

The designer has long described his collections as "femininity with a bite" and this time around the make-up look was kept simple so all eyes were on the clothes.

Prabal wanted "great skin [and] beautiful hair", with make-up artist Diane Kendal on hand to deliver. She opted for MAC Face and Body Foundation to even out models' skin tone. While the recent trend has been for matte skin, Diane skipped the powder this time around to keep things dewy and fresh.

A little cream blush helped give the women a flushed appearance, while highlighter gleamed on eyelids and cheek bones. She also contoured cheeks and added white liner to the rims of eyes to help them pop.

While the trend for bushy eyebrows showed no sign of abating on this runway, lips were toned down. Rather than the bold red or pink which has been big lately, foundation was smoothed other lips to give them a natural vibe.

Jin Soon was on manicure duties and used a nude shade on most nails. Some were given some added interest thanks to a thin line of burgundy polish drawn down their centres.

Hair wise things were kept simple, with images of Nepalese women with straight, centre-parted, tresses the inspiration. Paul Halon used a volume boosting spray to get the look, before putting hair in a loose bun, adding a texturising spray and then drying with a diffuser.

"When you undo it you get a little kink, but I don't want to use a tong because it [starts to] look cosmetic very quickly," he explained.

The beauty looks weren't the only bit of excitement at Prabal's show. His catwalk was crashed by Ukrainian journalist Vitalii Sediuk, who ran down it wearing just a g-string, trench coat, red socks and a golden crown. The designer seemed to see the funny side though and was photographed wearing seemingly the same headpiece at an after-party following his presentation.

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