New York Fashion Week

Thursday 21 August 2014

J.Crew's most buzzworthy collection yet

Sophie de Rosee, Telegraph.co.uk

Published 12/02/2014 | 09:52

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NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 11:  A model poses at the J.Crew presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at The Pavilion at Lincoln Center on February 11, 2014 in New York City.  (Photo by Brian Ach/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week)
A model poses at the J.Crew presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at The Pavilion at Lincoln Center

The buzz that surrounds J.Crew shows no sign of abating any time soon.

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Having opened stores in London last year, the intrinsically American super brand continued apace with another high impact collection for autumn/winter 2014, full of colour and sparkle.

Tom Mora, head of women's design, was inspired by a recent trip to Berlin and cites artist Otto Dix's 1926 painting Portrait of Sylvia von Harden and the cabarets of the Weimar period in the German capital during the 1920s and 30s as his chief starting points for the collection.

"All of the romance, the decadence, the moodiness of that period is what you see in the collection," said Mora. "All the models are long and languid, the textures are really lush, the colours are moody."

While waistlines on dresses and coats were dropped and skirts were cut to below the knee, there was still a lot of trademark J.Crew razzle dazzle that made it more contemporary than vintage in style. Plenty of pink popped up throughout the 29 looks, plus bold primary coloured coats, clashing prints and sparkles galore. The shoes are an ongoing collaboration with British designer Sophia Webster.

Signature to this collection, and to J.Crew's design DNA, is the balance of masculine and feminine pieces, such as boyish wool bomber jackets over dresses or mannish trousers in gold sequins.

This collection will be as popular in New York as it will be in London, as J.Crew's creative director Jenna Lyons agrees, "I don't really apply to the concept that style has a geography. Here at J.Crew we're hoping for people to make their own style rather than us prescribing a way for a people to dress."

NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 11:  Models pose at the J.Crew presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at The Pavilion at Lincoln Center on February 11, 2014 in New York City  (Photo by Jemal Countess/Getty Images)
Models pose at the J.Crew presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at The Pavilion at Lincoln Center
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 11:  A model poses at the J.Crew presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at The Pavilion at Lincoln Center on February 11, 2014 in New York City.  (Photo by Brian Ach/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week)
A model poses at the J.Crew presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at The Pavilion at Lincoln Center
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 11:  A model poses at the J.Crew presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at The Pavilion at Lincoln Center on February 11, 2014 in New York City.  (Photo by Brian Ach/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week)
A model poses at the J.Crew presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at The Pavilion at Lincoln Center

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