Thursday 18 December 2014

Colourful couture at Proenza Schouler

Published 13/02/2014 | 09:09

NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12:  A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 on February 12, 2014 in New York City.  (Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014

Proenza Schouler's Fall/Winter 14 collection was all about colour when it debuted last night.

Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez attempted to describe what inspired their New York Fashion Week line via their show notes, which had words such as 'humour', 'instinct' and 'spontaneous' penned on them.

Lazaro explained the line was mostly about having fun backstage, with the duo's creativity shining through. The line was colourful and bursting with pattern, with the designs sketched in brightly-hued pencils.

The pair also met with a sculptor who creates bold pieces, resulting in stark patterns where black was teamed with pink, orange and purple.

A prime example was a turquoise and black jacket with peplum detail and a funnel neck, which sported rounded shoulders and sleeves which fitted at the shoulders and wrists, but ballooned out in the middle.

The tightly-knit, abstract pattern of the piece shouldn't have worked with the bold trousers it was teamed with, but somehow it did. They were monochrome, with the design seemingly a thick zebra print.

NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12:  A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 on February 12, 2014 in New York City.  (Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 on February 12, 2014 in New York City. (Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12: A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 on February 12, 2014 in New York City. (Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
NA model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
A model walks the runway at the Proenza Schouler fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014

Separates were one of the line's big looks, sometimes clashing as above but also matching. One such look saw a model in a blue/purple dropped shoulder jacket, which was held together with one button and jutted from the waist. Again the sleeves were voluminous, in what is becoming one of the season's key aesthetics. This was paired with a skirt which hit just above the knee in the same fabric, with a monochrome high-neck shirt underneath.

The technical aspect of the line couldn't be denied, with lace and flock prints paired and a wool jacquard coat completely reworked so it was almost unrecognisable.

Betsey Johnson also showed yesterday and stuck to what she knows best - colour. Her runway display was live-streamed in Times Square, with the designer going for the 'more is more' approach. A typical look saw a model in a neon yellow lace bodysuit, which covered her from neck to toe. Over this was a pale pink midi skirt, which was seemingly attached to the cropped black bustier also on show. On the model's feet were black and silver-studded ankle boots, with a gold chain around her neck.

If that wasn't quite out-there enough, another wore a spray-on gold sequinned minidress with cutaway panels with purple over-the-knee silk boots. As it was a winter collection, the look was finished a full-length Dalmatian print furry coat.

On the other end of the spectrum was Michael Kors, whose Fall/Winter 14 line was a lesson in taupe. From cappuccino shades to creams and pale greys, the palette was muted and chic. It was a line for real women, with slim trousers, comfortable knits and midi skirts all appearing. Somewhat surprising was Michael's liberal use of fur, which featured in stoles and jumpers.

Today is the last day of shows in America, with Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs all presenting.

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