A day in Milan
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Duomo di Milano
Vittorio Emanuele gallery in Milan
Sublime Gothic masterpiece
Word to the wise: Take the elevator on the left flank of the duomo up to the roof to admire views over Milan’s orange rooftops to the mountains in the north.
Milan’s vast Gothic duomo soars above the city. The world’s third largest cathedral (beaten by the Vatican and Seville Cathedral) has a pink-hued façade encrusted with around 2,300 gargoyles, a roof bristling with pinnacles and a spire topped with the five meter golden figure of Milan’s much-loved mascot, the Madonnina.Inside, the space is divided into five aisles supported by 52 huge marble pillars. The flooring is of complex marble patterning, illuminated with dappled shafts of light reflected through the jewel-like stained-glass windows, and the side chapels are dotted with Renaissance and Mannerist tombs.
In the crypt is the tomb of Counter-Reformation leader Carlo Borromeo and 'Via Doloroso' by conceptual artist Mark Wallinger, a flickering metaphor for Christ’s last journey to the Cross. Around 500 years in the making, the cathedral was consecrated in 1418 but was not declared complete until the mammoth bronze entrance doors were finished in 1965.
Fee: Rooftop viewing, elevator: EUR 10, walking: EUR 6
Cumulative ticket: EUR 10-13
Open Hours: Daily: 7am - 7pm
See webpage for individual times
Information, Daily: 9am - 5pm
Address: Piazza del Duomo
Phone: +39 02 7202 2656
+39 02 7202 3375
Duomo di Milano's webpage
See & Do
FORMA
Photography gallery in Ticinese district
Noteworthy for: Through its exhibitions, programs and projects with important cultural partners, FORMA has become a major supporter and distributor of photographic arts in Italy.
In an old streetcar warehouse in the trendy Ticinese district lies the relatively newly opened photo gallery FORMA. The gallery offers a rich selection of exhibits, video installations and lectures.FORMA works with three themes in terms of their exhibits. The history of photography is one of them, and the most important personalities within photography are given a showcase here. This section also has an educational aim, in the sense of helping the viewer to see the communication dynamic between photography, journalism and art forms. The second theme represented here is a solo exhibit dedicated to photography masters, foremost Italian, but also important international photographers. The last theme is dedicated to masters within fashion and portrait photography.
Fee: Adult: EUR 7.50
Open Hours: Tue-Wed, Sat-Sun: 10am - 8pm
Thu-Fri: 10am - 10pm
Address: Piazza Tito Lucrezio Caro 1
Phone: +39 02 5811 8067
FORMA's webpage
See & Do
Aperitivo
Tapas Milanese-style
Word to the wise: Be warned: as much as Milanese folk are exuberant and fun loving, they will heartily disapprove of drunken behaviour at aperitivo time.
Tipple of choice: A Rossini is prosecco with strawberries, a Bellini prosecco with peach juice.
In order to mop up the alcohol of the cut-price after-work (or after-shopping in Milan) aperitivo – think Campari, Milan’s iconic drink, sickly cocktails or sparkling prosecco – the bars serve a selection of stuzzichini (finger food) comprising a tapas-like spread of crudités, olives, salads, cheeses, cold pasta dishes, stuffed peppers and breads.
Hot on the aperitivo trail are the beautiful Balinese-style outdoor bar at the Hotel Bulgari Milano, D&G’s fabulously opulent Gold, and the Garden Bar at the Enterprise Hotel, natural home of etiolated models. But wherever you wash up during early evening, you are guaranteed at least a plate of olives and pistachios to nibble upon.
Price sample: Cocktails: EUR 6-8 Open Hours: Around 6.30pm - 10.30pm
Shopping
10 Corso Como
Destination store of choice for Milan’s fashionistas
Word to the wise: 10 Corso Como has an outlet store at Via Tazzoli, 3. It’s a five minute walk from the main boutique and offers serious designer discounts.
Arguably the world’s most beautiful shop, the concept store 10 Corso Como is the lifework of Carla Sozzani and has innovated the retail world for 15 years. Surrounding a flower-filled courtyard, this glittering emporium on several floors is where the famous, wealthy, and glamorous of Milan come to empty their Gucci wallets.At ground level, there’s a boutique filled with designs by Prada, Chloé, and Commes des Garçons, up-and-coming brands such as Roberta di Camerino and Gareth Pugh, and beautiful, surprisingly helpful serving staff. Upstairs a gallery sells contemporary art and top-notch ceramics as well as arty coffee table books.
Open Hours: Mon-Tue, Fri-Sun: 10.30am - 7.30pm
Wed-Thu: 10.30am - 9pm
Address: Corso Como, 10
Phone: +39 02 2900 2674
10 Corso Como’s webpage
Shopping
Galleria and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II
Undercover shopping in galleries and porticos
Noteworthy for: Corso Vittorio Emanuele II comes alive after dark; there are several cinemas in the street and plenty of bars and cafés.
Elegant Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II sits on the north flank of the Piazza del Duomo and is crammed with top-end designer stores including Gucci – which has a sleek, but very expensive café with a tiny courtyard in which to be seen – Prada, and Louis Vuitton.From here a left-hand turn into the piazza leads past La Rinascente, Milan’s leading department store, and on to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. This grand, pedestrianised and portico-lined boulevard leads down to Piazza San Babila and boasts mid-range international chains such as Benetton, MaxMara, and Gap.
Restaurants
Antico Ristorante Boeucc
Milan’s oldest restaurant
Word to the wise: Smarten up for a visit to Bouecc; it is a formal dining room and neither shorts or strappy t-shirts will be appreciated.
A firm favorite with the great and good of Milan for its vicinity to La Scala, Bouecc opened its doors in 1696, making it one of the oldest and most traditional restaurants in the city. That much is evident on entry; all is vaulted ceilings, gilt, elegant linen drapery and dripping chandeliers.This elegance is underlined by courteous service from waiters who were probably here on opening night, and the strong Milanese cuisine – risotto, dumplings, pasta, osso bucco. There’s also a wonderfully creaky dessert trolley serving crême caramel and chestnut ice cream.
Price sample: Main course: EUR 25-70 Address: Piazza Belgioioso, 2 Phone: +39 02 7602 0224 Antico Ristorante Boeucc’s webpage
Restaurants
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello
Fantastic Milanese cooking at a great price
Word to the wise: The restaurant does not accept credit or debit cards, so be sure to take enough cash.
Housed in classically simple tiled dining rooms, Nuovo Macello has been cooking up a traditional Milanese storm since 1927. It is currently owned by chefs Giovanni Traversone and Marco Tronconi, who have concocted a seasonal seven course tasting menu as well as the à la carte for evening dining. Dishes can include tuna cooked with capers and tomatoes, carpaccio, gnocchi, pasta, cod, veal with mushrooms, plus a daily dessert, offering a microcosm of superb Milanese cooking.Macello’s clever midday meal deals draw the crowds daily; on weekdays a “worker’s lunch” is served of pasta, entrée and pudding for EUR 18.
Price sample: Main course: EUR 9-24 Open Hours: Mon-Fri: 12noon - 2pm, 8pm - 10pm Address: Via Cesare Lombroso, 20 Phone: +39 02 5990 2122 Trattoria del Nuovo Macello’s webpage
Restaurants
Pane e Acqua
Quality food in an eye-opening restaurant
Word to the wise: Pane e Acqua is tiny and tremendously popular, so book a table well in advance.
Noteworthy for: The seven course degustazione menu; but lunchtime offers a couple of courses for EUR 18.
Using regionally and seasonally sourced foods, Passalacqua conjures up simple Modern Italian dishes incorporating traditional ingredients such as pasta, risotto, beef and fish but with an extraordinarily delicate touch; this is pared-down modern cooking at its best.
Price sample: Main course: EUR 12-30
Seven course tasting menu: EUR 55
Open Hours: Mon-Sat: 10am - 11pm
Address: Via Matteo Bandello, 14
Phone: +39 02 4819 8622
Pane e Acqua’s webpage
Bars & Nightlife
Bar, Hotel Bulgari Milano
Zen-like tranquility in beautiful gardens
Tipple of choice: The speciality Hotel Bulgari cocktail is a delicious mix of gin, the Campari-like liqueur Aperol, orange juice, and fresh lime.
Don the glad rags and killer heels to mingle with soccer stars and political movers in one of Milan’s hottest glamor spots; Hotel Bulgari has a cool, dark bar with sleek granite counters and a waiting staff just as gorgeous as the clientele.There is a sumptuous tapas-like feast on offer at aperitivo time, but people flock here for the lawned gardens, furnished with Balinese-style low sofas and basil plants in pots. Open all day for food, drinks, and herbal teas, the gardens are softly lit by night, making a summer hotspot for perfectly mixed cocktails and a tranquil ambience.
Price sample: Cocktails: From EUR 10 Open Hours: Daily: 7am - 2am Address: Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b Phone: +39 02 805 8051 Bulgari Hotels’ webpage
Bars & Nightlife
Enoteca Ombre Rosse
Ancient vinoteca bursting with bottles
Word to the wise: Listen to the expert advice of the waiters when ordering wine to accompany your supper; they really know what they are talking about.
Step back in time to sip wine from a fine assortment of 400 quality Italian wines in this charming, old-fashioned vinoteca (wine shop); the walls are lined with wooden shelves sporting hundreds of bottles just begging to be sampled.Behind the store lies a simple restaurant, looking for all the world like grandma’s drawing room. Here a gastronomic treat awaits of fois gras, patanegra ham, and organic cheeses from local suppliers; the menu is chalked up daily on the board, and there’s also a traditional shiny copper bar selling whiskies and liqueurs.
Price sample: Wine, glass: From EUR 2.50
Open Hours: Tue-Sat: 10am - 1pm, 4pm - 1am
Sun: 5pm - 11pm
Address: Via Plinio, 29
Phone: +39 02 2952 4734
Enoteca Ombre Rosse’s webpage
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