A day in Madrid
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Plaza de la Cibeles
Cibeles Square, Madrid
Madrid’s most beautiful, most emblematic plaza
Talk of the town: Palacio de Linares is thought by some locals to be haunted by the spirit of José de Murga, a rich banker who was the palace’s first owner.
Plaza de Cibeles, located in the Madrid de los Borbones neighborhood, is one of the most important and beautiful squares in the city. The centerpiece of the plaza is a beautiful statue and marble fountain dedicated to Cibeles, the goddess of agriculture, grain crops, fertility and motherly relationships.The square is itself a history lesson in architecture, as it is surrounded by truly spectacular buildings: the Gothic cathedral-like Palacio de Comunicaciones (City Hall), the Italian Renaissance headquarters of Banco de España, and the Baroque 1873 Palacio de Linares that currently houses the cultural center, Casa de América, which focuses on Latin American arts and hosts lectures, theater and musical performances.
Fee: Palacio tour: Adult: EUR 7, Senior/Student: EUR 4, Child (under 12): Free
Open Hours: Tue, Thu, Fri: 9.30am - 11.30am
Sat-Sun, public holidays: 10am - 1.30pm
Palacio Linares tours: 11am, 12noon, 1pm
Address: Paseo de Recoletos, 2
Metro: Banco de España
Phone: +34 915 954 800
Palacio de Linares' webpage
See & Do
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía
Madrid’s newest museum and home to Picasso's 'Guernica'
Noteworthy for: The museum's modern collection focuses on Spain's three great modern masters: Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró.
Museo Reina Sofía is a treasure trove of contemporary and modern art. Two floors house the permanent collection of the Abstract, Pop, and Minimal Art movements and two floors house temporary exhibits.The museum’s most famous resident, of course, is Pablo Picasso's massive ‘Guernica,’ which depicts the tragic bombing of the Basque town during the Spanish Civil War. Commissioned by the Spanish government for the 1937 World’s Fair in Paris, the masterpiece was displayed in a New York gallery until 1981, fulfilling the artist’s wish that it would not be shown in Spain until democracy was established in the country.
Other museum highlights include: Picasso‘s ‘Woman in Blue,’ Salvador Dali’s ‘Landscapes at Cadaqués,’ José Solana's ‘The Gathering at the Café del Pombo’ and Francis Bacon’s ‘Reclining Figure’.
To begin your exploration of this special museum, check out the wonderful interactive displays located on the ground floor as you walk up a sloped ramp.
Fee: Combined: Adult: EUR 6
Temporary: Adult: EUR 3
See website for free admission criteria
Open Hours: Mon, Wed-Sat: 10am - 9pm
Sun: 10am - 2.30pm
Address: C/Santa Isabel, 52
Metro: Atocha
Phone: +34 91 774 1000
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía's webpage
See & Do
Templo de Debod
An ancient Egyptian temple in the heart of Madrid
Noteworthy for: With the Guadarrama mountains as a backdrop, the temple offers one of the city's most romantic sunset views.
Word to the wise: Stroll along Paseo Pintor Rosales, which runs next to the Parque del Oeste, for a lovely collection of outdoor cafes and bars.
In 1960, as the construction of the Aswan Dam was underway, UNESCO saw that several nearby monuments and archeological sites were threatened. And so, as a sign of gratitude for Spain’s assistance in saving and restoring the ancient temples of Abu Simbel in Nubia, Egypt donated Templo de Debod to Spain in 1968. Completely reconstructed, the temple now sits in the Parque de la Montaña near Plaza de España.
Beyond the two tall, narrow gateways that lead to the temple, go to the west hall to see the hieroglyphics. Inside, a photo exhibit documents the temple’s fascinating history and its unusual reconstruction.
Fee: Free
Open Hours:
Apr-Sept: Tue-Fri: 10am - 2pm, 6pm - 8pm
Oct-Mar: Tue-Fri: 9.45am - 1.45pm, 4.15pm - 6.15pm
Sat-Sun: 10am - 2pm
Mon, public holidays: Closed
Tours: Reservation only: Sat: 11.30am - 12.30pm
Address: Paseo Pintor de Rosales 2, Parque del Oeste
Metro: Plaza de España
Phone: +34 913 667 415
Templo de Debod's webpage
Shopping
El Rastro
Europe’s largest flea market in the city's historic center
Word to the wise: Most of the prices at this Sunday-only market are not fixed and bargaining is expected.
Although there’s a main street dedicated to market stalls, the real treasures are found on the side streets. Here are some pointers:
- At the top of the hill, you'll find clothing of all types and sizes
- Around Plaza dos Cascorro, where the handmade jewelry is sold
- C/ Ribera Curtidores sells art, handicrafts, hand-made clothing and antiques
- C/San Cayetano is dedicated to paintings and copies
- The narrow alleys to the right (C/Rodas in particular) stock antiques and second-hand goods
- The bottom of the hill has books, new and antique
End your adventure by going back to La Latina for tapas and rioja or a caña.
Open Hours: Sun: 9am – 3pm Address: From Plaza Mayor or La Latina follow the crowds downhill toward Puerta de Toledo. El Rastro's webpage
Shopping
Loewe
Leather products in stellar designs, made with artisan craftsmanship
Word to the wise: Since 1846, Loewe has had the reputation for being the country's most elegant leather store. But it also carries it's own unique and affordable perfumes.
In a country that produces superb leather products, Loewe is considered to have the finest. When it first opened in 1846, the shop was preparing for two royal marriages - the unions of Isabel II of Bourbon to the Duke of Cadiz and Princess Maria Luisa Fernanda to the Duke of Montpensier. Since then, its reputation has remained as flawless as its artisan craftsmanship.Although well-known as having timelessly stylish handbags, coats, jackets, wallets, and luggage, Loewe carries a selection of their own perfumes and eau de colognes . Not available for sale in the States, these wonderful scents are actually reasonably priced.
Open Hours: Mon-Sat: 9.30am - 8.30pm
Sun: Closed
Address: C/ Gran Vía, 8
Metro: Banco de España or Gran Vía
Phone: +34 915 226 815
Loewe's webpage
Restaurants
Café Circulo de Bellas Artes
A grand café immortalized by Pedro Almodovar in his 1993 film 'Kika'
Noteworthy for: You might find yourself sitting next to Javiar and Penelope.
Tipple of choice: Café Circulo serves some of the best chocolate drinks in the city. But with 38 options, it might become a tough decision.
The Parliament and Banco de España are nearby, so expect politicians and bankers to mingle with more arty types. (The art stars arrive later in the day, naturally.) The Castilian dishes - the daily-changing lunch menu and the evening tapas - are delicious. And so are the wines.
Fee: Private club entry: EUR 1
Open Hours: Mon-Thu: 9am - 1am
Fri-Sat: 9am - 3am
Sun: 12noon - 1am
Address: C/Alcala, 42
Metro: Banco de España
Phone: +34 915 216 942
Café Circulo de Bellas Artes' webpage
Restaurants
El Deseo de Maria
A stunning cavelike setting for a romantic dinner in Chueca
Word to the wise: Don't miss the small art gallery next to the dining room, featuring works by the acclaimed Catalan painter and sculptor Guillem Farias.
El Deseo de Maria is set in an exquisite place - in a centuries-old stone cellar that used to be part of a horse stable. Underneath an arched ceiling with walls lighted to perfection, you'll dine on fine white linen and feast on modern takes of traditional Spanish dishes. The changing and inspired menu might have mushroom croquettes served with tomato jam; roasted steak with mango, scallions and shitake; or grilled wild sea bass with garlic oil.
Price sample: Lunch: EUR 10+
Dinner: EUR 17+
Open Hours:
Tue-Sat: 1.30pm - 4pm, 9.30pm - 11.30pm
Sun: 9.30pm - 11.30pm
Address: C/Barbieri, 15 (Chueca)
Metro: Chueca Line 1 or 5
Phone: +34 911 297 997
Restaurants
La Casa del Abuelo
A standing room only bar that has been in the family for over 100 years
Popular plate: The gambas al ajillo - shrimps cooked in oil and garlic and ideal for bread dipping - are some of the best in town.
The smell of delicious grilled gambas and langostinos wafting through the air leads you to Casa del Abuelo. This traditional tavern is still in business after more than 100 years, and still run by the original family. Marked by the grill in the doorway and the racks of wine behind the bar that stretch the entire length of the room, this bar is so tiny it's standing room only. Order a chato of the house wine - a hand-picked sweet drink from Alicante - since it's the perfect complement to the sweet seafood.
Price sample: Entrees: EUR 8.50-12
Open Hours: Daily: 8.30am - 12midnight
Address: C/Victoria, 12
Metro: Sol
Phone: +34 910 000 133
La Casa del Abuelo's webpage
Bars & Nightlife
Palacio Gaviria
Party like royalty at this 19th century palace-turned-nightclub
Noteworthy for: After 2am this is the hottest see-and-be-seen nightclub in town.
This 1847 palace is the former home of the eccentric Marqués de Gaviria, a favored paramour of Queen Isabella II. Legendary for his flamboyant style, Gaviria decorated his abode with an ostentatious mishmash of Neo-Classical and Baroque ornamentation, fabulous frescoes, gilded ceilings and wall-length mirrors.These days, the over-the-top decor serves as a photogenic backdrop for films, fashion shoots and magazine spreads and, of course, all the beautiful, dressed-up locals who show up for sultry Latin beats in ten lofty rooms over three floors.
Fee: Sun-Tue: EUR 10 (inc one drink)
Fri-Sat, public holidays: EUR 15 (inc one drink)
Price sample: Cocktails: EUR 9
Age: 18+
Open Hours: Daily: 11pm - 6am
Address: C/ Arenal, 9
Metro: Sol
Phone: +34 915 312 601
Palacio Gaviria's webpage
Bars & Nightlife
La Venencia
A secret sherry bar with a wonderful old-timey atmosphere
Noteworthy for: Sherry, sherry and more sherry, served with flavorful olives, cheese and cured ham.
Tucked into a narrow street in the center of town, this wonderful sherry bar is easy to miss. But once you find it, and enter through the large creaky doors, you're transported immediately to Andalusia circa 1950. Dusty bottles and sherry barrels line the wall behind the bar and chalk marks keeping count of clients’ tabs are scratched onto the wooden bar.The star attractions here are the Jerez Sherries - Fino, Oloroso, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Pedro Ximénez and Manzanilla – which are served with almonds. If you want to sample all six varieties, it will only cost around EUR 10 to do so.
Price sample: Sherry: EUR 2
Tapas: EUR 2+
Open Hours: Daily: 1pm - 3.30pm, 7.30pm - 1.30am
Address: C/Echagaray, 7
Metro: Sol or Sevilla
Phone: +34 914 297 313
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