Sunday, May 27 2012

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London

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A day in London

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See & Do

Tower of London


(c) Michael Blann

A spectacular royal castle with a bloody history

Word to the wise: It's actually a good idea to join a guided tour. They are lead by the Beefeaters (royal guards), who’ll throw in a few anecdotes and may even help you to spot a ghost or two.

There’s no precise date documenting when building of the Tower of London began, but records show that it was well on its way during the 1070s under the watchful eye of the King, William the Conqueror, following his victory at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. Since then, this enduring fortress has been enjoyed as a royal palace, used as an armoury and prison for a number of years during the reign of King Henry VIII and the Tudors, and even housed a zoo.

Today the Tower is as impressive as ever to visit and has been beautifully maintained; you can see the old prison cells, execution site where enemies of the state met their gruesome ends and the Jewel House where the British royal jewels are still on display. In the winter, an ice rink is built here and the tower forms a fabulous backdrop for a skate.

Fee: Adult: GBP 20.90
Open Hours: Tue-Sat: 9am - 5.30pm
Sun-Mon: 10am - 5.30pm
Address: The Tower of London
Tube: Tower Hill
Bus: 15, 42, 78, 100, RV1
Phone: +44 20 3166 6000
Tower of London's webpage

 

See & Do

Victoria and Albert Museum

A museum dedicated to beauty

Popular plate: The V&A’s café Benugo serves some of the tastiest scones and clotted cream in town.

As you walk through the V&A’s revolving doors, the first thing you see is the blue, green and yellow glass Dale Chihuly chandelier hanging from the ceiling, giving you some indication of what you might find here. Occupying around 150 galleries, the V&A was founded in 1852 by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert to display the largest collection of decorative arts in the world. Today it shows some of the biggest and best exhibitions on earth dedicated to fashion, design and architecture.

The museum is vast and you won't be able to see it all in one day. It’s a good idea to plan your visit before you come, or just buy a ticket for the current exhibition on show, spend a couple of hours there, and then walk through the French doors out into the beautifully-designed Italian-style courtyard for a spot of tea.

Fee: Adult: GBP 13.50
Check webpage for exhibitions
Open Hours: Sat-Thu: 10am - 5.45pm
Fri: 10am - 10pm
Address: Cromwell Road
Tube: South Kensington
Bus: C1, 14, 74, 414
Phone: +44 20 7942 2000
The Victoria and Albert Museum's webpage

 

See & Do

Barbican Centre

A grey concrete jungle housing Europe’s largest arts centre

Noteworthy for: It was voted London's 'ugliest building' in 2003.

Word to the wise: If you crave some greenery, visit the Barbican Conservatory, a calm tropical oasis harbouring thousands of species of plants and birds. It can be hard to find, so ask the helpful staff how to get there.

The Barbican Centre is an impressive shrine to the emerging architectural style of the early 1970s that was labelled ‘brutalism’. And you can see why it was named as such as you walk towards the looming grey towers that make up the housing estate next to the arts centre. Despite being voted London's most unattractive building, it has since garnered a more fashionable following in the last decade.

If you do like minimal grey concrete buildings (and it does have a certain charm great for composing abstract photos), then you’ll enjoy strolling along the lakeside terrace and through the centre’s maze of floors and corridors. Spend time perusing the latest exhibition, catching a film in one of its cinemas or watching an arts performance, for which it's most famous.

Open Hours: Barbican Centre, Mon-Sat: 9am - 11pm
Sun, Bank Holidays: 12noon - 11pm
Barbican Art Gallery, Fri-Tue: 11am - 8pm
Wed: 11am - 6pm
Thu: 11am - 10pm
Address: Silk Street
Tube: Barbican

Phone: +44 20 7638 8891

Barbican Centre's webpage

 

Shopping

Broadway Market

Hip Saturday shopping hot spot

Tipple of choice: On a hot day grab a cold cider from the off licence on the corner and wile away the afternoon in London Fields with the rest of East London.

Broadway Market’s barrow boys have been hawking food and wares to the Hackney community since the 1890s. Today there are more than a 100 stalls selling everything from gourmet fudge and ostrich burgers to hand-made lingerie. It forms the hub of Hackney’s hip and trendy community who come in their droves on Saturdays.

It's a great place to hang out any day of the week – enjoy a drink in the fashionable Cat and Mutton pub on the corner, sip smooth coffee in Climpson and Sons or walk a little further down the road for lunch in Little Georgia - a cosy café serving tasty traditional Georgian dishes.

Open Hours: Sat: 9am - 5pm (shops open normal working hours)
Address: Broadway Market
Tube: Bethnal Green
Train: London Fields
Broadway Market's webpage

 

Shopping

Dover Street Market

Avant-garde fashion finds

Popular plate: The fourth floor Rose Bakery - first founded in Paris - does delicious little savoury tarts, mouth-watering cakes and a selection of teas and coffees.

Noteworthy for: The Dover Street Market is headed up by Comme des Garcons' Director Rei Kawakubo.

More a collection of designer boutiques than a market, each 'stall' is as beautifully and uniquely designed as the clothes it exhibits, making them near art installations in themselves.

Set over six floors, it’s a great place to peruse the latest fashion by some of the biggest and most avant-garde names in the industry, such as Christopher Kane, Erdem, Gareth Pugh and Martin Margiela.

Open Hours: Mon-Wed: 11am - 6.30pm
Thu-Sat: 11am - 7pm
Sun: 12noon - 5pm
Address: 17-18 Dover Street
Tube: Green Park
Phone: +44 20 7518 0680

Dover Street Market's webpage

 

Restaurants

A little of what you fancy

East London secret serving delicious seasonal dishes

Word to the wise: Make sure you book a table to avoid disappointment – it’s well known amongst the East London fashion-crowd and fills up fast.

Popular plate: The slow braised oxtail with red wine, herbs and garlic is deliciously rich and filling.

Tucked nonchalantly between a laundrette and a disused building; walk by too fast, and you’ll miss it. There’s no sign on the door so the only way to find this place is to know the exact address. Understated on the outside it may be, but walk in and you’ll be confronted with London’s trendiest crowd. Don’t forget that in Dalston, the more dilapidated a place looks, quite often the cooler the kids.

The decor inside is laid back and rustic, with wooden tables and chairs, and the menu is small but perfectly formed. Here they serve British food with a Mediterranean twist, such as a mushroom pate with toast to start, a selection of tasty meat dishes and salads for main and generously sized puddings that are perfect for sharing.

Open Hours: Tue-Wed: 9am - 11pm
Thu-Fri: 9am - 12midnight
Sat: 10am - 12midnight
Sun: 12noon - 6pm
Mon: Closed
Address: 464 Kingsland Road, Dalston
Overground: Dalston Junction, Dalston Kingsland
Phone: +44 20 7275 0060
A Little Of What You Fancy's webpage

 

Restaurants

The Hawksmoor

Dishing up the best beef in London

Popular plate: Indulge in the pièce de résistance: chateaubriand (a particularly thick cut from the tenderloin) followed by the salted caramel ice cream.

Word to the wise: The cuts of beef are big, so small eaters should share and order a couple of the superb side dishes.

There is no better place to sink your teeth into a big juicy steak. Celebrated by critics as the finest in the city, the Hawksmoor serves what they describe as ‘dictionary thick’ cuts.

Their beef comes from Longhorn cattle reared in North Yorkshire and dry-aged for 35 days by the award winning butchers, The Ginger Pig. Once in the restaurant they are cooked to perfection on a charcoal grill.

The décor of all three restaurants is simple but warm, with exposed brick walls and dark wood parquet flooring so as not to distract from the star of the show – the beef.

Price sample: Main course: GBP 12-49.50
Open Hours: Mon-Sat: 12noon – 2.30pm, 6pm – 10.30pm
Sun: 12noon – 4.30pm
Check webpage for Seven Dials/Guildhall times

Address:
Spitalfields, 157 Commercial Street
Tube: Liverpool Street, Shoreditch High Street
Seven Dials, 11 Langley Street
Tube: Covent Garden, Tottenham Court Road
Guildhall, 10 Basinghall Street
Tube: Moorgate, Liverpool Street

Phone: +44 20 7426 4850
The Hawksmoor's webpage

 

Restaurants

Sketch

Food for the fashion conscious

Talk of the town: The main toilets are made up of egg-shaped pods that look like something out of 'Space Odyssey 2001'.

Word to the wise: Go to The Parlour Café in the afternoon as it’s members only from 9pm.

Once the headquarters for Christian Dior, Sketch started its fashionable life as it meant to go on. Opulent and lavish, it oozes style, and leggy, impeccably dressed beauties only add to the effect.

Dine in The Gallery restaurant downstairs - the walls are adorned with video art installations - or if you’re feeling a little more flush, head for the Art Deco Michelin-starred Library.

If your budget doesn't quite stretch to eating at Sketch, have a coffee and a cake in the The Parlour Café; the décor is just as eclectic and drinks are served in colourful, mismatching Victorian tea cups.

Price sample: Starter: GBP 11-28
Main course: GBP 18-29
Open Hours: The Parlour (members only from 9pm), Mon-Fri: 8am – 2am
Sat: 10am – 2am
Lecture Room, Tue-Sat: 12noon – 2.30pm, 7pm – 11pm
The Gallery, Mon-Sat: 6.30pm – 2am
Check webpage for the Glade and East Bar times

Address: 9 Conduit Street
Tube: Oxford Circus
Phone: +44 20 7659 4500
Sketch's webpage

 

Bars & Nightlife

Bistrotheque

A cool East End bar and restaurant that helped revive cabaret

Tipple of choice: Sample some of the regional French wines or the zesty passion fruit caipirinha.

Housed in a renovated East End warehouse, Bistrotheque boasts a chic white restaurant that serves up a tasty French bistro-style starters menu, a plush and decadent Napoleon bar with a good list of cocktails and flirtatious staff, and last, but not least, the Cabaret room – the main reason this place is packed almost every night of the week.

Bistrotheque hosts an eclectic roster of nights, including Johnny Woo’s infamous gay bingo and the Lipsinkers – a troupe that sings its own special rendition of musical classics which will have your sides splitting with laughter. This is where the bright, beautiful and impeccably attired come to be entertained.

Price sample: Cocktail: GBP 8 - GBP 12
Open Hours: Sun–Thu: 6.30pm - 10.30pm
Fri-Sat: 6.30pm - 11pm
Address: 23-27 Wadeson Street
Subway/Tube: Bethnal Green
Phone: +44 208 983 7900
Bistrotheque's webpage

 

Bars & Nightlife

Experimental Cocktail Club (ECC)

A decadent drinking den

Word to the wise: The doormen are a little particular about dress code, so check what night they’re having before you pitch up.

Tipple of choice: The Havana comes highly-recommended; a smoky, cigar-infused bourbon concoction that hits the back of the throat with a bang.

Hidden behind an unmarked wooden door on Gerrard Street, ECC is Chinatown’s latest stylish speakeasy, steeped in quasi-secrecy so you feel like one of the selected special few. But it's not all about image - the bartenders are serious about their mixology, too.

Set over two floors, the look is Victorian opulence just on the right side of kitsch; think Chesterfield sofas, velvet footstools and warm, golden light from the chandeliers which sparkles in the mirrored walls and ceiling. The cocktails are titillating enough, but the antique kissing chair adds a further element of the naughty.

Bookings are only taken by email - reservation@chinatownecc.com - but aren't mandatory.

Fee: GBP 5 after 11pm
Price sample: Cocktail: GBP 10-12
Age: 18
Open Hours: Mon-Sat: 6pm - 3am
Sun: 6pm - 12midnight
Address: 13A Gerrard Street, Soho
Tube: Leicester Square, Tottenham Court Road
Phone: +44 782 521 877
Experimental Cocktail Club's webpage

 

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