A day in Buenos Aires
(Want to download the full guide to your Smartphone? Download it from GuidePal City Guides.)See & Do
Plaza de Mayo
The most symbolically important site in the city
Noteworthy for: Watch the touching vigil of the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo in their symbolic white headscarves, who have demonstrated here since 1977 against the kidnapping, torture and execution of their children during the military government’s reign (Thu, 3.30pm).
As Buenos Aires’ first central square – founded in 1580, the same year as the city – Plaza de Mayo has seen the nation’s traumas and celebrations played out on its pavements from the thousands cheering Peron and Evita from that famous balcony to the police shooting of five protesters during the 2001 economic crisis.Packed with historical monuments, a walk around the plaza is like a walk through the nation's significant events. The Pirámide de Mayo, an obelisk, was built in 1811 to mark the first anniversary of Buenos Aires’ independence from Spain. You can also visit the Casa Rosada, the government’s executive buildings, and Cabildo, Buenos Aires’ oldest town hall outside of which there is a small artisan fair, Thursday and Friday from 11am to 6pm.
Address: Plaza de Mayo, Microcentro
See & Do
Guapachoza
From clowns to jazz, and back
Noteworthy for: They host the after-party for the legendary Monday night La Bomba de Tiempo at the Konex around the corner, with live bands and free entry.
Popular plate: When everyone has had a few, order a stone-baked pizza to line your stomach.
Most of the action happens outside in the courtyard, but tucked away inside is a cozy cabaret stage, with the audience crammed in on tables, on the floor or pressed up against the wall.
Fee: Usually free Open Hours: Daily: 7pm - late Address: Jean Jaures 715, Abasto Phone: +54 11 6091 4890 Guapachoza's webpage
Shopping
A.Y. Not Dead
Rock and roll glad rags
Noteworthy for: This fashion-forward Argentine brand has gained international recognition, featured on the pages of Elle magazine and Rolling Stone, and it always causes a stir at BA’s Fashion Week.
The opening credits on the website say it all. A beautiful young couple on a graffitied rooftop wearing a mixture between street and chic, denim contrasted with a tuxedo jacket, showing off their hip tattoos and lithe bodies in a black and white mini ad. This is Argentina’s cooler answer to American Apparel, and affordable too. There are outlets across Buenos Aires, but the Palermo store has a hip downtown vibe.
Address: Gurruchaga 1637, Palermo Soho
Phone: +54 11 4772 8993
A.Y. Not Dead's webpage
Shopping
Galerías Pacífico
Luxury shopping in a must-see building
Noteworthy for: True to its Beaux-Arts aesthetic, on the first floor you’ll find the Central Cultural Borges housing a small fine art collection and a changing calendar of cultural events and exhibitions.
This turn-of-the-century shopping mall instantly gives an air of elite luxury with its grand vaulted ceiling and cupola adorned with frescoes – considered some of the most important in Buenos Aires. Modelled on Le Bon Marche in Paris, naturally it is home to high-end designers such as Christian Dior, Ralph Lauren and Hugo Boss.It has an interesting history: when the military junta ruled Argentina, they were said to use the basement as a torture center for the disappeared. It is now been declared a national historic monument.
Open Hours: Mon-Sat: 10am - 9pm
Sun: 12noon - 9pm
Address: Florida 737, Microcentro
Phone: +54 11 5555 5110
Galerías Pacífico's webpage
Restaurants
Divina Patagonia
For a taste of Argentine tradition
Popular plate: The lamb with wild fruits is exceptional, and for dessert try the yerba mate and orange Crème bruleé.
This old neighborhood house is where to come for a taste of traditional Patagonian cooking – a region of southern Argentina. Straight out of the mountains, the dishes are all wonderfully prepared, sometimes with a creative twist on national favourites, such as wild boar sirloin with mango or the Divinia Patagonia salad of deer in spiced oil with herbs, cheese, toasted almonds and dried tomatoes.The ingredients are sourced from the region itself, and the decoration is inspired by the native flora. Each of the flowers you see on display carry a significance for the indigenous people of Patagonia.
Open Hours: Daily: 6pm to late Address: Honduras 5710, Palermo Phone: +54 11 4771 6864
Restaurants
Las Cabras
For your cheap meat fix
Popular plate: The parilla completa includes sirloin, filet mignon, flank steak, chorizo, chicken breast, blood sausage, sweetbread, kidney and papas fritas - enough food for three at least.
Word to the wise: The less adventurous may want to ask what they’re eating if the likes of marrow and intestine make your tummy turn.
Tipple of choice: The wine is ridiculously cheap and very good.
Price sample: Main course: ARS 19-55 Open Hours: Daily: 12noon - 1am Address: Fitz Roy 1795, Palermo Viejo Phone: +54 11 5197 5301
Restaurants
La Puerto Rico
Coffee, cakes and chocolate in this old-world cafe
Popular plate: For those with a sweet tooth, try the homemade chocolate.
Talk of the town: Several movies have used this coffee shop for an atmospheric location.
Unlike the other historic cafes of Buenos Aires, La Puerto Rico isn’t overrun with tourists, and yet it's conveniently close to Plaza de Mayo and Microcentro. It also doubles up as a restaurant and bar: on Saturday nights they have a dinner show with live music, and at 2pm on Sundays catch some tango.
Open Hours: Mon-Fri: 7am – 8pm
Sat: 8am – 12midnight
Sun: 12noon – 7pm
Address: Adolfo Alsina 416, Monserrat
Phone: +54 11 4331 2215
La Puerto Rico Cafe's webpage
Bars & Nightlife
Bar Ocho7Ocho
Speakeasy chic
Noteworthy for: There are over 100 types of whiskey on offer. Take a seat on one of the sofas and get started.
Popular plate: Soak up some of that whiskey with the very good beef fillet sandwiches with fried green tomatoes.
Talk of the town: Ocho7Ocho is listed as one of the top 10 bars in Buenos Aires by the Guardian newspaper.
Open Hours: Mon-Fri: from 7pm
Sat-Sun: from 8pm
Address: Thames 878, Villa Crespo
Phone: +54 11 4773 1098
Bars & Nightlife
La Catedral
An alternative and amazing tango experience
Noteworthy for: This is somewhere to dance, not watch. If you want to try your feet, the Tuesday beginners classes are popular so you can hide your own mistakes amongst the masses.
Word to the wise: Classes are held in Spanish, and you will change partners as you dance unless you bring your own. Be prepared to make friends.
This is not the tourist-sanitised fodder of San Telmo or Palermo dance halls, but a quirky bohemian experience attracting a young and interesting crowd. The atmosphere of the absurd seems to free up dancers to be more experimental, and less self-conscious. This is not about slick polished moves or conventions, but just people who are passionate about dancing and tango music.
Check the website for class schedules, but Friday and Saturday both offer a cheap and interesting night out.
Fee: ARS 10-15
Open Hours: Classes, Mon-Sat: 8pm, 10pm
Sun: 7.30pm, 9.30pm
Milonga after classes
Address: Sarmiento 4006, Almagro
Phone: +54 155 325 1630
Le Catedral's webpage
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