Sunday, May 27 2012

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Berlin

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A day in Berlin

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See & Do

Holocaust Memorial


Poignant remembrance of wartime horror

Talk of the town: Approximately 5,000 people a day visit the memorial, just under two million a year.

Designed by Peter Eisenman and Buro Happold, this stark, beautiful square between the Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer Platz, is a permanent reminder of the Jewish persecution during World War II.

Opened in 2005, the memorial consists of 2,711 blocks of concrete - 'stelae' - placed over an area of 19,000 square meters. The site slopes slightly, designed to give the observer a sense of confusion and bewilderment and symbolising a world that has lost all reason.

The memorial was the subject of much controversy, with many debating whether Germany can ever be allowed to move on with such a powerful reminder of its failings staring back at it every day. Others argue that this is precisely the reason it was needed.

Visitors can wander between the stones and spend time contemplating their meaning and, underground, is an information center detailing events of the Holocaust, which is also free to enter.

Fee: Free
Open Hours: Field of Stelae: 24 hours
Information Center, Apr-Sep, Tue-Sun: 10am - 8pm
Oct-Mar, Tue-Sun: 10am - 7pm

Address: Cora Berliner Straße 1, Mitte
Phone: +49 30 2639 4336
Holocaust Memorial's webpage

 

See & Do

KW Institute for Contemporary Art


Creative co-operative helping establish new artists

Word to the wise: Entrance on Thursdays between 7pm - 9pm is just EUR 4 and includes a guided tour (German only).

Talk of the town: The Institute sits on the site of an abandoned margarine factory.

Founded in the years after the fall of the Berlin Wall, the Institute is a collection of individual gallery spaces, studios and guest exhibitions. It is dedicated to giving new and established artists a public platform for their work. A non-profit organisation, KW relies heavily on state subsidy and third-party funding, but has been so successful that it is now the primary organiser of the Berlin Biennale culture festival. As a center for the visual arts, visitors are guaranteed exciting, thought-provoking works by artists who wouldn't normally have anywhere to express themselves. Some exhibitions are free, others have a small admission fee.

After a browse through the many small galleries here, pop into the attached Cafe Bravo. Even the cakes and light lunches here look they've come straight from an artist's studio.

Fee: Adult: EUR 6

Open Hours: Tue-Sun: 12noon - 7pm
Thu: 12noon - 9pm

Address: Auguststrasse 69, Mitte
Phone: +49 30 243 4590
KW Institute for Contemporary Art´s webpage

 

See & Do

Tiergarten

Second largest urban garden in Germany

Word to the wise: Hire a 'Velotaxi' (pedal taxi) to get yourself around the park - it's too big to do it all on foot.

Talk of the town: 'Tiergarten' is German for 'Animal Garden'.

Covering 520 acres of parkland, the Tiergarten is situated west of the city center. Yet, it's central enough to provide Berliners with important tranquillity amongst the urban madness.

Originally the hunting ground of the Prince-electors, the park was modernized in the early 19th century and, between 1961-1989, was bordered along the east by the Berlin Wall. In the northeast corner sits the Reichstag whilst, to the south, is Potsdamer Platz and the Sony building.

Cutting a swathe through the park is Strasse 17 Juni, a vast, eight-lane road connecting Unter den Linden and Charlottenburg, off which spring a myriad of other little roads and paths that stretch deep into the forest. As well as cafes and plenty of quiet benches, the park contains many little lakes, which are popular with brave ice skaters when they freeze over in winter.

Address: Strasse de 17 Juni, Tiergarten, Mitte
Tiergarten's webpage

 

Shopping

Häckeschen Höfe

A quirky collection of decorated streets and shops

Noteworthy for: Being home to the 'Chamaleon Variete', Berlin's best attempt at reviving the 1920s cabaret scene.

This complex of eight interconnecting courtyards has been here for hundreds of years. It was at the beginning of the 20th century, though, that they were transformed into the Art Nouveau masterpieces we see today.

Shoppers, or just the curious, can meander through these beautiful streets, with their intricate, fairy-tale-like facades, mosaics and exclusive stores. Sit and people-watch in one of the many pavement bars and cafes, or check out where to have dinner later. It's a place to be seen 'in' too, so the evenings, especially, are when the A-listers come out to exploit this natural catwalk.

Address: Rosenthaler Strasse 40/41 amd Sophienstrasse 6, Mitte
Phone: +49 30 2809 8010
Hackesche Hoefe's webpage

 

Shopping

KaDeWe

Berlin's flagship department store

Word to the wise: The food court gets packed on Saturdays.

Talk of the town: As of 2011, KaDeWe is Europe's second biggest department store - only Harrod's in London is larger.

Kaufhaus des Westens, or "KaDeWe", is a Berlin institution. Despite its size, though, it's easy to miss as you wander the gray frontages of the Tauentzienstrasse. But, look up - you'll realize you're staring at a proper 'ShopZilla' and you will know that you've arrived.

A traditional department store, floors are genre-specific (beauty, men, women etc), so it's easy to navigate. There's a good mix of designer and chain favorites, but the highlight is the seventh floor food court, which is more a high-end delicatessen. The top-floor restaurant is worth a visit for the extraordinary views alone.

Open Hours: Mon-Thu: 10am - 8pm
Fri: 10am - 9pm
Sat: 9.30am - 8pm

Address: Tauentzienstraße 21-24, Schoeneberg
Phone: +49 30 21 210
KaDeWe's webpage

 

Restaurants

Transit

Asian tapas, freshly made in minutes

Noteworthy for: Being completely MSG-free.

Popular plate: The 'Little Swimmer' spicy fish soup.

Word to the wise: When Mitte gets busy at weekends, there is another Transit in Friedrichshain, on Sontagstrasse.

This light, bright Thai/Indonesian restaurant is always very popular because of its fresh approach to casual dining. What the Spanish do so well with tapas, the guys at Transit have nailed down for Asian cuisine, too. Here, you can sample small or large bowls of anything from crispy fried chicken skin and sticky rice with pork, to papaya salad and five spice duck.

Service is friendly and unobtrusive, which makes Transit a great place to come with friends. Sharing is the key to a good night here, so order as much as you like, put it all together, and tuck in.

Price sample: Tapas: EUR 3-7

Open Hours: Daily: 11am - 1am
Address: Rosenthaler Strasse 68, Mitte
Phone: +49 30 2478 1645
Transit's webpage

 

Restaurants

Schneeweiss

Sophistication and elegance, Austrian-style

Popular plate: Veal entrecote with chantarelle risotto.

Talk of the town: All the waiters wear entirely white, from top to toe, so it's sometimes hard to see them.

If there is such a thing as Austrian fine dining, then you'll find it here at Schneeweiss. Meaning "snow white" in English, the name sums up the virginal, minimalist interior, with clean lines and the most dazzling white tablecloths, napkins and drapes you'll ever see. Even as the restaurant prepares to shut at well past midnight, it's so bright in here, it could be midday.

The menu changes frequently, but dishes like the perch fillet in beurre blanc, and salsify-ricotta strudel, are just two examples of the fineries you can expect here. Classy and stylish.

Price sample: Main course: EUR 9.6-23.5
Open Hours: Mon-Fri: 6pm - 1am
Sat-Sun: 10am - 1am
Address: Simplonstrasse 16, Friedrichshain
Phone: +49 30 2904 9704
Schneeweiss' webpage

 

Restaurants

Hugos

High-end food in a high-rise dining room

Noteworthy for: The stunning view over Tiergarten from the 14th floor.

Popular plate: Mangalica piglet belly.

Talk of the town: Chef Thomas Kammeier is Germany's version of Gordon Ramsay and sells millions of cookbooks every year.

If you want to splash out on a special meal in a special restaurant in this special city, this is probably the place to do it. Located at the top of the swish Intercontinental Hotel, Hugo's oozes class and sophistication. The menu is a truly cosmopolitan mix of Mediterranean, Asian and German classics, and the dishes change often, so there's always something new to try.

What you're guaranteed, though, is an evening of refined elegance, spectacular views, immaculate service and Michelin-starred food. Portions are small, however, so there'll be room for a Currywurst on the way home.

Price sample: Main course: EUR 28-60
Tasting menu: EUR 95-155
Open Hours: Mon-Sat: 7pm - 10.30pm
Address: Intercontinental Hotel, Budapester Straße 2, Mitte
Phone: +49 30 2602 1263
Hugos' webpage

 

Bars & Nightlife

Metzer Eck

Traditional Berlin pub

Noteworthy for: The good range of ales on offer.

Word to the wise: Lots of the tables get reserved at weekends, so try on a quieter week night to guarantee getting a seat.

A nod to the pre-Wall days of East Berlin, this traditional German bar has managed to retain an air of authenticity, whilst keeping up-to-date with new beers and a constantly-changing menu of heartwarming 'pub grub', which is great on those cold, winter nights.

It's quite easy to stay here for a few hours and work your way through the drafts and bottles on offer, and the owners will often sit down with you for a chat if they're not too busy. Proper German hospitality in a typical German hostelry.

Price sample: Main course: EUR 5.5-8.5
Open Hours: Mon-Fri: 4pm - 1am
Sat: 6pm - 1am
Address: Metzerstrasse 33, Prenzlauer Berg
Phone: +49 30 442 7656
Metzer Eck's webpage

 

Bars & Nightlife

CSA

Chic lounge bar, a cut above the rest

Tipple of choice: The CSA Cosmopolitan.

Talk of the town: The building was the former ticketing office for Czech airline, CSA, after which the bar was named.

This might look like a brand-spanking-new cocktail bar, but the building is very much old-East Berlin, with its angled geometry and pillars, reminding visitors that some of the best architecture in the world was hidden behind the so-called Iron Curtain for far too long.

Popular with the thirtysomething artsy set, inside there's a swanky long bar, with pale leather stools, perfect for enjoying a Singapore sling or designer beer. Casino-style ceiling lights add to the glitz and glamour, and the staff are so on the money, they're mixing your drink even before you've finished asking for it.

Price sample: Cocktails: EUR 12
Open Hours: Daily: 7pm - late
Address: Karl-Marx Allee 96, Friedrichshain
Phone: +49 30 2904 4741
CSA's webpage

 

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