That words from one of Shakespeare's tragedies were bubbling about our brains was ridiculous. The descent of the steps was actually a happy if challenging thing; we were on holiday in one of the most beautiful places in the world, the Amalfi coast, and seeing it in the best way possible, by taking a walking holiday through its most exciting landmarks -- Vesuvius, Pompei, and Capri -- as well as its charming villages.

The only walking I ever do is an odd leisurely stroll on Dun Laoghaire pier, but according to the Travel Department's advice, once I was equipped with good walking shoes, a stick and a knapsack, I would be fine. When I clapped eyes on my fellow walkers, during the bus journey from Rome airport to our base at Seiano just outside Sorrento, I was a bit intimidated by their Lowe Alpine and North Face gear. It didn't help that when our lovely guide Laura talked about our first climb, up "the Vesuvio", words like "steep" and "stamina" peppered her conversation.

But I needn't have worried, the climb up the volcano was just a walk, and even though the hikes on other days were a tad more strenuous, the few aching muscles were more a badge of pride than serious pain. My pride in my prowess was punctured somewhat when some of my fellow walkers who had walked the Camino and Mount Snowdon agreed that our trip was what they'd call a "walking holiday lite". It was a trip which allowed plenty of time for sampling the cuisine of the area -- the wafer-thin pizzas, the crispy pastries filled with ricotta which are called sfogliatella, the limoncello -- and the shops of bustling Sorrento which conveniently stayed open late and were full of leather handbags and coral.

To me, it was a perfect way to see the area, and the programme was a fabulous mix of culture, history and natural beauty.

Vesuvius towers over the region, so naturally it was our first port of call. Our walk took us right up to the mouth of the crater -- a bit scary, as experts estimate it could erupt again any time, but apparently the signs, spirals of smoke, will start appearing at least three weeks before hand. It's something with which the locals seem to be totally at ease. There are numerous villages at the foot of the volcano, and apparently the inhabitants have been assigned instructions about where to seek refuge if and when it does erupt.

The last eruption was in 1944, but the most famous took place in 79AD when Pompei was destroyed. A visit to Pompei, which was rediscovered in the mid-18th Century, really manages to evoke the enormity of the tragedy.

As our excellent guide Nino led us through the streets with their enormous cobbles specially sized to the wheels of chariots, and explained the significance of the buildings still standing -- the gladiator school, the bakery where 80 loaves of bread were found, and the brothel where the still extant frescoes spell out clearly what was on offer -- he brought home the impact of the catastrophe all those centuries ago.

Capri was our next port of call. And forget the song -- the emphasis is on the cap. This mountainous island, 5km by hydrofoil from Sorrento, is a real day-trippers' must-do. Visitors immediately take a funicular halfway up the island to the Piazza Umberto Primo, which has been described as the drawing room of the island, as it's the place to enjoy the stunning views over the bay of Naples while sipping a (very expensive) coffee. For lunch, we had, of course, the island's signature dish Caprese (tomato, mozzarella and basil salad) and were also introduced to a delicious dish, deep-fried courgette flowers. Yum.

Just off the square can be found the world's top designer shops -- Pucci, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Versace, Roberto Cavalli et al. But we were there to walk, and walk we did. Our guides bought us through narrow pathways to different exit points and views, one more stunning than the next. We saw sheer cliffs, unusual rock formations and the Fraglioni, the most famous natural rock formation in the world. We also saw the home of Sophia Loren. Perched on the edge of a cliff, it's called La Casa Solitari.

Other walks included a hike from the hilltop village of Ravello down to the pretty seaside town of Amalfi, but the most challenging, and most rewarding, was the one from another mountain village, Nocelle, to Positano. A quick scout around Nocelle -- like every tiny village it boasts a good coffee shop and a huge church -- and we were off.

As we hiked through the wild pathways, it became clear why this walk is called il Sentieri Degli Dei, the Walk of The Gods, and is often listed as one of the 10 most spectacular walks in the world. Our guides pointed out the areas of special interest: the cliff face known as the Biscotti, the rock formation called the Giants' Fingers, sights like the tiny Moorish house built into the rock, the caves in the rock faces, the sheer cliffs down to the azure blue sea. We drank in the scents of the area provided by the many lemon groves, the wild herbs growing everywhere and marvelled at the glorious colour pro-vided by the hibiscus and bougainvillea.

Then we came to the 1,700 steps. I admit it, I did falter a few times and wanted to give up, but as Macbeth might say I was in so far, to go back were as tedious as go o'er.

And the rewards were tremendous -- the stunning village of Positano where the pink, white and yellow houses look as if they're about to throw themselves into the sea, the maze of laneways full of shops selling colourful beachwear, the church, only yards from the sea, where a Limerick woman and a Kerryman were exchanging vows and the waves into which we flung our aching bones. Roll on more walking holidays.