Those of you who studied Roman history at school, or Classical Studies as it's now called, will remember the legend of the rape of the Sabine women by Romulus, founder of Rome, and his soldiers. Apparently they needed wives in order to keep Rome going and so came and helped themselves.

It is hard to imagine such atrocities taking place in a countryside so tranquil and idyllic. Romans now travel to this area looking for week-end homes or retirement retreats or even to live, since it is within commuting distance of Rome.

Thirty five years ago architect Roberto Scheda came from the Eternal City to live with his family in the ancient medieval hilltop village of Casperia. He completely restored his 15th century house, complete with some of the original frescos on the walls. He called it La Torretta, and his family runs it as a bed and breakfast.

I stayed at La Torretta, and I have to say the view from my bedroom window was spectacular, stretching across the valley to the forest covered hills on the other side. The farmhouses below, each with their rows of olive trees and vines, looked almost like little models.

There are hundreds of little hilltop villages like Casperia in Italy. The year 1000 AD is called Incastellamento -- the age of building castles. These fortified hilltop villages were a necessity to protect natives from the 'barbarian hordes' who swept down from northern Europe wanting the good life that Rome provided. Many of these villages are not occupied, but in Casperia these ancient houses are gradually being restored.

There is a wonderful sense of going back in time as you walk the narrow little streets with their hilly steps, the smell of jasmine floating on the air.

Flat shoes are a must. Cars cannot fit into the village and are left outside the big walls.

There were eight of us on a weekend trip called 'A Taste of Rome', from England, Ireland and Northern Ireland. Four of our number were travelling solo but we soon became one happy family, being shepherded around quietly and thoughtfully by Mark Minihane, who runs the trip. Mark managed to pack a lot of activity into the three nights and two days.

On our first night, we went to the local restaurant outside the walls and had wonderful antipasti to start with, which I followed with a rustic pasta; enough for a farmer!

Next morning we were led through the subtleties of locally produced cheeses made mainly from sheep's milk. Ines, in her organic foods shop, guided our taste buds. Ines is a member of the Slow Food movement which, as many know, was started in Italy in 1989. A non-profit, member-supported organisation, it was founded to counteract fast food and fast life, and it hopes to prevent the disappearance of local food traditions and to encourage people's interest in the food they eat, where it comes from, how it tastes and how our food choices affect the rest of the world. It has over 80,000 members all over the world (anyone can join -- check the web).

If you want slow food, try making your own pasta! Chef Mauruzio charmingly instruc-ted us in the skills of making pasta by hand at a class in La Torretta. In fact, the process is most relaxing, the mixing, the kneading and the rolling are very therapeutic -- provided you are not in a hurry.

Later on Sunday, we ate the results of our labour, filled with spinach and fresh ricotta and flavoured with grated fresh nutmeg; to die for is the only way to describe it. Jennifer, Roberto's daughter, helped us make a delicious tiramisu with which we finished our meal, accompanied by Italian wine.

Another kitchen we visited was that of Paola and Franco in their country house 'Gusto al Borgo' about a mile outside the village. Paola showed us how to make lasagna and a delicious chilled dessert amongst other things. Her husband Franco, a big, happy man with hardly a word of English, set out the table and we sat down, a large happy family eating the fruits of Paola's labour and drinking some wine -- which, of course ,had been produced locally.

One of our party exclaimed that she had already reached the last hole on her belt!

Finally we went to Johnny Madge's wine bar, a tiny place in the Piazza del Municipio. Johnny, an English man married to an Italian is an expert in olive oil and helps compile the Slow Food Guide to Italian olive oils. We tasted a number of oils served on hot bruschetta (Italians pronounce it brusketta) followed by wonderful Italian wines and delightful savouries.

Of course we had to finish the night with a sing-song. As the only male member of a local choir, Johnny has a really great voice and he thoughtfully supplied the words for the rest of us to sing along. Then came our final ascent up the jasmine-scented steps to bed, to wake one last time in the morning and look out at the wonderful view and listen to the constant chattering of the birds.

Perhaps more aptly called a Taste of Italy instead of a Taste of Rome (although Mark does organise a 6-night version of the 'Taste of Rome' that includes a guided visit to Rome), the three night trip gives you a birds-eye view of the central Italian country side with a peep-hole back in time. You get a chance to slow down in this wonderfully quiet country village and savour the subtle tastes of cheeses, olive oils, Italian wines and some typical Italian foods and to make new friends.