Monday, February 13 2012

Inside Ireland

Irish beaches for kids

Rossbeigh Strand, Co Kerry

Rossbeigh Strand, Co Kerry

By Rick Le Vert

Saturday June 27 2009

We all have them -- our poignant childhood memories of a summer's day at the beach. The sandy togs, the rockpool curiosities, collecting empty bottles for a bit of pocket money, or begging our parents for a 99.

Life in Ireland, beach life included, no longer seems so innocent. But we still have some of the world's most beautiful beaches on our doorstep, and nothing quite compares to a family day at the seaside for fun. Here are our favourites:

North and South Beach, Brittas Bay, Co Wicklow

Like no other Irish beach, Brittas Bay sits deep in the nation's collective memory of summer at the seaside. Together, Brittas' North and South beaches make up 5km of fluffy, soft sand. The sensitive dunes are riddled with rabbit warrens, rare plants, insects, frogs and hovering kestrels, while the surroundings are crawling with the usual suspects of a family outing, from sweet shops to sport centres.

For a cosy alternative to Brittas' open sandy stretch, try the sheltered coves of nearby Silver Strand -- arguably the most beautiful beach on Ireland's east coast. Access is through Wolohan's Caravan Park on the coast road between Brittas Bay and Wicklow (parking fee is €6 weekdays, €8 weekends. Tel: 0404 69404; wolohanssilverstrand.com). Unleash the kids on Clara-Lara Funpark, Rathdrum (€10. Tel: 0404 46161; claralara.com), then refuel with homemade cakes at Avoca Café (Tel: 0402 35105; avoca.ie).

Tramore, Co Waterford

At one end, Tramore thumps with the pulsing beat of the hurdy- gurdy, the amusements, the promenade and the throngs of day-trippers drawn to the bells and whistles; at the other, nothing but the sound of surf against a backdrop of mountainous sand dunes.

Seapaddling.com offers a family- friendly introduction to sea kayaking (half-day family package, €150. Tel: 087 268 6529); the Freedom Surf School does the same for surfing (family lesson for two adults and three children, €135. Tel: 086 391 4908; freedomsurfschool.com); while the Beach Haven House and Hostel caters for families on a budget (€35pps, children half price, under threes go free. Tel: 051 390208; beachhavenhouse.com).

Should your idea of beach fun be something less grand than Tramore's big strand, follow the locals to smaller spots such as Saleens, the iconic Guillamene bathing spot, or the cliff-ringed beaches at Garris and Kilfarrasy, two of many along Waterford's amazing Copper Coast.

Garretstown, Co Cork

Garretstown is a sandy jack-of-all-trades and probably Cork's most popular strand for families. Big enough to handle a crowd, it also has plenty of smaller niches to tuck into. Tide out, the inter-tidal zone mutates into the perfect surface for beach games; tide in, swimming takes over. Garretstown's waves can generate enough pop for aspiring surfers without over-powering beginners. And with dunes at the fringes, small rockpools at the sides and views out over magnificent Old Head, this beach has something for everyone.

Considering Garretstown's proximity to Kinsale, one of Ireland's premier sailing centres, this may be the place to learn the difference between tacking and jibing; try the Kinsale Outdoor Centre (Tel: 021 477 2896; kinsaleoutdoors.com). Take away a traditional haddock and chips from the Fishy Fish Chippie, the fast-fish offshoot of Kinsale's landmark Fishy Fishy restaurant (Tel: 021 470 0415; fishyfishy.ie).

Inchydoney, Co Cork

Not too difficult to understand why Ireland's political elite chooses to squeeze Inchydoney's fine sand between their toes on their annual 'think-ins'. While two plains of the sparkling stuff may not cure the country's woes, it can help the rest of us to forget them. Wait for the tide to go out and start the family building your own visionary world in the sand. When the water comes

back to erase those dreams, gather the brood for a head-clearing dunk

in the foam of the rushing waves.

A causeway links Inchydoney Island with Clonakilty, a hub of west Cork culinary activity. Much of it is centred around the Farmers' Market on Thursdays and Saturdays, or at the Scally's SuperValu -- Clonakilty's best options for stocking up on picnic supplies before going to the beach.

Inch Strand, Co Kerry

Inch and its sandy counterpart, Rossbeigh Strand, protrude from opposite sides of Dingle Bay like two paddles of a pinball machine waiting to swat incoming balls back out to sea. Despite having a major supporting role in Ryan's Daughter (David Lean's sexually-suggestive epic), Inch is highly suitable for a family audience.

If glider clubs have been known to use Inch's enormous sandy plain for take-off and landing, surely you and the kids can launch that kite comfortably. Watersports schools operate from vans on the beach. From fresh oysters and Guinness to groceries and wetsuit hire, Sammy's Restaurant and Shop has all your beach needs covered, located at the entrance to Inch (Tel: 066 915 8118).

North and South Beach, Ballybunion, Co Kerry

According to the old adage, if the kids are happy, so are the parents. The beaches of Ballybunion are just the place for reversing the hierarchy. While one parent takes the tots to either of the town's two superb beaches -- known locally as Mens and Ladies -- the other skives off for a round of golf at one of Ballybunion's world-class links courses, or for a soak in the traditional seaweed baths at the foot of the Ladies Beach (€20 per half hour). Alternate until both parents are happy; the kids will be too.

For one of the most stunning scenes Ireland has to offer, follow Ballybunion's gentle cliff walk north to reach Nuns Beach, a sunken horseshoe cove of sand, caves and sea arches. Unlike the nuns, who negotiated the steep slopes for their daily swim, you and the kids are advised to experience this wonder from the pathway above.

Keem, Achill Island, Co Mayo

The drive alone to this piece of beach perfection at the end of the

world will have the kids' jaws dropping and your hands in a white-knuckle grip on the wheel. After the steep climb, you descend on a cove of such beauty that it needs nothing else -- no crazy golf, no spinning tea cups -- to keep the entire family caught up in a sense of real beach adventure. Wedged at the bottom of a steep-sloped valley, Keem makes an ideal spot for a sheltered family swim and a picnic, but even if just for the views, this is one beach in Ireland not to miss.

Achill's embarrassing wealth of other Blue Flag beaches includes south-facing Trawmore, the favourite for watersports enthusiasts; Dooega, a lovely little stone and sand bay with a few rockpools and a pier; and the north-facing Dugort. For well-presented details on everything from kayaking to cycling, see achilltourism.com. Follow your beach adventure with the nettle soup and homemade brown scones at the Beehive Café in Keel (Tel: 098 43134).

Rossnowlagh, Co Donegal

Here in Rossnowlagh, it's an age-old tradition for families to motor onto the packed sand, the car boot full of beach gear. Once parked, out come the folding chairs, blankets, grub, flasks of tea and the buckets and spades. Not long after, the Mr Softee van slowly rolls by.

This west-facing slice of Donegal Bay is the spiritual home of Irish surfing, and the ideal beginner's beach for a family of future wave riders. Contact the Fin McCool Surf School (adults, €35; kids, €25 for a

two-hour lesson. Tel: 071 985 9020; finmccoolsurfschool.com). Rossnowlagh also has a dedicated car-free zone, but for those who feel cars and beaches should never mix, head south to the marvellous Tullan, or north to Murvagh. The memorabilia-laden Surfer's Bar at the Sandhouse Hotel serves decent soup and sandwiches (Tel: 071 985 1777; sandhouse-hotel.ie), or combine local oysters with views of Donegal Bay and the Bluestack Mountains at the Smugglers Creek Inn (Tel: 071 985 2366).

Magheroarty, Co Donegal

Every year, the Earagail Arts Festival transforms another of Donegal's spectacular beaches into a family-friendly cultural zone. Imagine the squeals of fear and peals of laughter when they turned Downings' strand into a drive-in beach cinema for a screening of Jaws -- the parents squealed and the kids laughed at what was, for them, just a big, mechanical fish.

This year, the spotlight is on Magheroarty, a 3.5km-long arm of

sand jutting into the sea near Gortahork, where a summer series of workshops on the beach will have kids creating sculptures with textiles, bamboo, willow, paper and paint. The finished pieces will form a part of Loinnir 2009, a night-time show of illuminated sculpture, film and music in the dunes of Magheroarty. For course dates and details see eaf.ie or cosanglas.com.

Maggie Dan's in Gortahork combines thin-crust pizzas with Irish culture (Tel: 074 916 5630; maggiedans.ie). For total cultural immersion, take the ferry from Magheroarty Pier to Tory Island (€26 return; children under 15 half price; under-fives go free. Tel: 074 953 1320; toryislandferry.com).

Port Lurganboy Beach, Co Louth

Granted, Louth doesn't spring to mind when thinking of beaches, but that's what makes this wide, sandy beach near the fishing village of Clogherhead all the more interesting -- few people outside the area know about it. Out of all our family-friendly beaches, Port Lurganboy is the closest to Dublin and yet one of the more rural, making it ideal for a relaxed, family outing.

Lurganboy's mature dunes are perfect for a picnic and offer plenty of space to play; at high tide, the beach is ideal and safe for bathing, and at low tide it opens itself up for the enjoyment of beach sport enthusiasts. On a clear day, the views take in Louth's even more remote Cooley Peninsula and the Mournes of County Down. The Neptune Activity Centre is at Little Strand, just south of Clogher village (Tel: 041 983 4422; neptuneireland.com), and the Little Strand Restaurant is a child-friendly bet for good food (Tel: 041 988 1061). Car break-ins have been reported at Lurganboy, so park wisely.

All of the beaches in our list have been awarded a Blue Flag for 2009, with the exception of Magheroarty, which has a Green Coast award. This means they have met the strictest requirements for bathing water quality, are equipped with public toilets and have full lifeguard coverage within the designated Blue Flag areas. They are a precious resource; take away everything you bring with you. See www.discoverireland.ie

- Rick Le Vert

 
 
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