A day in the life: Wexford
Pól and Rosa explore the 50 acres of grounds at Johnstown Castle Estate; Wexford. Photo: Derek Cullen - Failte Ireland
Story of the day
I last stayed at Kelly's Hotel in Rosslare (053 913 2114; kellys.ie) some 20 years ago. Our parents brought us here during autumn mid-term breaks, and the competitions, windy strand and stewed apple-strewn breakfasts have long since crystallised into all-singing, all-dancing childhood memories.
Well, now my own daughter has turned three, a pending trip to Wexford seemed the ideal time to bring Rosa to this old holiday haunt in Rosslare to see what, if anything, has changed. We planned to use Kelly's as a base for a gentle, kid-themed exploration of Wexford. And it worked brilliantly.
Activity of the day
Shortly after our arrival at Kelly's, a bartender watches a gaggle of glucose-gobblers chase around the Ivy Room dancefloor. "It's a great place for kids," he says. "And it's a great place to be a kid." This is true (Rosa has soon joined in). Child-free adults may find it all a little hectic for a weekend break, but for parents and their children, the unapologetic family focus is a Godsend.
On Thursday morning, we hit arts and crafts (9.30am) and splash time in the pool (11am). We skip the scheduled bingo (2pm), painting (3pm) and Rice Crispy Buns (4pm), before returning for face-painting (4.15pm). Activity co-ordinators Maria Kastrati and Nicki Flynn seem boundlessly energetic and, following kiddie's tea (5.30pm), every child 'wins' a medal at the Kids' Disco (6.15pm). The parents are beaming.
Discovery of the day
Rosa is a big fan of Peppa Pig, so when I tell her an expedition is planned to 'Windy Castle', she can barely contain her excitement. We arrive at Johnstown Castle Estate (053 917 5347; free) to learn the 19th-century pile is closed to the public, but make up by strutting with the peacocks around 50 acres of ornamental grounds. The walled gardens open May 1 (€6 per car).
Johnstown Estate dates from Norman times and is today owned by Teagasc -- hence the presence of the Irish Agricultural Museum (053 917 1247; irishagrimuseum.ie; €6/€4). We pop in for a quick tour of carts and ploughs, but find surprisingly broad displays of country life. Rosa is particularly taken by the old wooden beds and settles. "They don't look very comfortable," she observes.
View of the day
Wexford's new Opera House (053 912 2400; wexfordoperahouse.com) is a stunning creation -- a state-of-the-art, walnut-panelled theatre carefully woven into the town's medieval streetscape. Were it not for the blinds, you could practically read the neighbours' newspapers, media relations manager Elizabeth Rose-Browne laughs, showing Rosa and I around the €33m building (mum is shopping on Main Street). We're tempted to return in May for Ahhh!, a performance for two to four-year-olds in the Jerome Hynes Theatre, but make do for the moment with the Sky View Café's panorama. It extends well beyond the River Slaney.
Dish of the day
Rates at Kelly's currently start at €77pps mid-week or €500pps for a five-day stay. Kids are charged at €25 per day (0-three years), €45 per day (three to four) or offered a 33pc reduction (four to 10). This seems high, especially if you're doing the sums for a family, but then the rates are full-board. At night, that includes adult dining in Beaches
restaurant -- a three-course á la carte menu that would otherwise cost €45pp.
Is it worth it? Kelly's contention that Beaches is "one of the best restaurants in Wexford" is about right. The dining room is a glamorous goldfish bowl at the heart of the hotel, and its art collection and wine list are worthy of a five-star establishment. I also recognise no fewer than five staff faces from 20 years ago. Are they local? "They are now," says Bill Kelly, himself the fourth-generation Kelly to run the hotel.
In high season, Kelly's produces up to 400 guest dinners a night. Ultimately, this kind of turnover can't be squared with fine dining, and the food, though tasty, arrives too quickly and falls a little short of the standards set by the room. It is what it is, however, and seems very comfortable in its skin.
Remains of the day
Kelly's sprung from a seaside tearoom in 1895. It has been evolving ever since, adding a spa, upgraded leisure facilities and adult activities (from Pilates to gardening). The rooms are basic for a four-star, but regulars don't complain. And there are tonnes of those -- the Thursday prior to our visit, I was the only person eating in one Monaghan hotel restaurant at 8.30pm. A week later, Kelly's was humming with a mid-week occupancy of 72pc. Go figure.
- Pol O conghaile
