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Inside Ireland

10 best beaches for swimming

From secluded coves to wide-open expanses, Rick Le Vert has the hot list of Ireland's best beaches for taking a dip


By Rick Le Vert

Saturday July 18 2009

Nothing rejuvenates quite like a swim in the sea. The head clears, the body comes alive. Suddenly, you're charged up with energy to spare. Die-hard bathers even describe their daily swim as an addiction; a necessary natural high for getting through the day.

Fortunately for us, Ireland is blessed with a striking abundance of fabulous swimming beaches. Some are better suited for the dippers among us, while others are more suited for the distance fanatics who think nothing of ploughing the odd kilometre or two.

Curracloe, Wexford, Co Wexford

For the thousands of sodden extras who swallowed buckets of seawater here in exchange for a brief taste of stardom in Steven Spielberg's Saving Private Ryan, a leisurely dip at Curracloe Strand might not be their idea of fun.

But for those who didn't pretend to be butchered on the beaches of Normandy, swimming from Curracloe's gently sloping strand -- it has 11km of it -- is the ultimate bathing pleasure. Especially when you throw the south east's supposed abundance of golden sunshine on top of those golden sands.

Combine your swim with a walk in the Raven Nature Reserve, a magnificently wild area of dunes and woodland linking Curracloe to Wexford's North Slob.

For superb prawns and Italian flair, head to La Dolce Vita in Wexford Town (053 917 0806). Blue Flag.

Dunmore East, Co Waterford

At Dunmore East, you get two beaches, two picturesque coves, for the price of one: the eastfacing Lawlors Strand, with views across the Suir estuary to Hook Head lighthouse, and the southfacing Counsellors Strand. Both of them are carved from the soft red sandstone of the surrounding hillsides, and both are very popular bathing spots with locals and Waterford day-trippers alike.

Should two beaches still not be enough for you, try some of the many other secluded coves along Dunmore’s coast. A narrow sea cliff path from the village leads to Portally, also good for snorkelling, and Rathmoylan. For local snorkelling tips and training, contact the Waterford Harbour Sub Aqua Club (divewaterford.com).

Banna, Ardfert, Co Kerry

A big, bold stretch of sand backed by gargantuan dunes, Banna is a wild, rough-and-tumble sort of place on the edge of Tralee Bay. Roger Casement, the nationalist hero of the ill-fated Easter Rising arms shipment, would probably have preferred not taking to the water at Banna. Put ashore here from a German UBoat, he was promptly arrested and eventually executed.

Don’t let this or Banna’s wild character put you off a swim. Stick to the designated bathing area and you’ll find it infinitely more enjoyable than Casement did.

Other beaches in the area include Ballyheigue and Fenit, both also ideal, if slightly less grandiose spots than Banna, for a swim. Locals gather at The West End Bar & Restaurant in Fenit for fresh mussels, drinks and sunsets (066 713 6246). Blue Flag.

Stradbally Cove, Co Waterford

You could be forgiven for not knowing about this stunning cove, the final beach jewel in the crown of Waterford's incredible Copper Coast. We often bandy about clichéd terms such as 'hidden' and 'off the beaten track', but in Stradbally's case they seem truly appropriate.

Discretely tucked in the bottom of a wooded valley, you'll find a V-shaped plain of golden sand, banked by magnificent rocky cliffs -- a local favourite for family outings and the place where generations of Stradbally kids have happily learned to swim.

The Copper Coast -- the name refers to the region's copper mining heritage -- is literally studded with hidden coves and wonderful, family-friendly beaches such as Annestown and Bunmahon. It also has been awarded European and UNESCO Geopark status.

To find out more about exploring the unique geology of this region by foot, bike, horseback or sea kayak, contact the Copper Coast Geopark (051 292828, coppercoastgeopark. com).

Narin, Portnoo, Co Donegal

We all have one -- our favourite swimming beach. Narin is mine, thanks to its association in my mind with the now legendary summer of '95. Remember how Ireland blossomed in Mediterranean-like warmth, how we moved our kitchen tables outside and slipped easily into the balmy water at beaches like this? Remember how this corner of north-west Donegal, its secluded islands and rugged mountains burst from their cocoon like some stunning tropical butterfly? Fingers crossed for a repeat performance; even without it, Narin still shines. Equally imprinted upon my brain from that summer is Nancy's Bar, the renowned watering hole and seafood restaurant in nearby Ardara. The pints are impeccable, as are the crab claws (074 954 1187). Blue Flag.

Gurteen Bay/Dog's Bay, Connemara, Co Galway

What more could a beach lover ask for than not one, but two crescent moons of blazing bright, seashell sand -- little shimmering lagoons, really -- inhabiting opposite sides of the same narrow isthmus. So, take your pick between Gurteen and Dog's Bay. Should the one not quite strike your fancy, try the other, though it's hard to see how either could fail to fulfil the desires of even the most demanding bathers. When the sun shines here, the emerald green waters of these two beaches can compete with anything a Caribbean isle has to offer.

Overlooking the pretty little harbour in nearby Roundstone is O'Dowd's Seafood Bar & Restaurant, a local favourite for seafood chowder, local lobster dripping in butter and views of Connemara's Twelve Pins (odowdsrestaurant.com, 095 35809). Green Coast Award.

Kells, Cahirciveen, Co Kerry

Talk about contrasts. From the windswept, exposed heights of the Ring of Kerry, you descend into a verdant cleft in the ground, winding seaward through a valley of lush, deciduous woodlands until you eventually pop out into the sleepy fishing village of Kells. The

safe, secluded beach here makes an idyllic spot for a quiet swim in the lovely water of Dingle Bay.

To fully experience the unique flora and fauna of this hidden valley, visit Kells Gardens -- 40 acres of rare and unusual varieties including, they say, Europe's largest collection of ferns and Ireland's largest

palm tree (adults, €6; children under 16, €4; under fours, free. Family of two adults and up to four children, €20. Tel: 087 777 6666; kellsgardens.ie). Blue Flag.

Old Head, Louisburgh, Co Mayo

Unlike some of the other beaches on our list, this sandy inlet on the southern shore of Clew Bay isn't overstocked with superlatives. But then it doesn't seem to need them. In anything but strong, northerly winds, the hills and unique woodlands backing on to Old Head give it a protected, cosy feeling, making it a downright pleasant place for an easy swim. If this pocket of calm sounds a little too tame, select your dramatic highpoints from a panoramic view that extends from Achill Island to Croagh Patrick.

Did we say Croagh Patrick? How about warming up for a swim with a quick pilgrimage to the top. Proper footwear advised; wait for the beach to bare your soles. Staunton's Pub in Lecanvey is the locals' choice for soup, sandwiches and atmosphere (098 64850). Blue Flag,

Trá an Doilín, Carraroe, Co Galway

Cross the bog-bumped roads of rural Connemara to the remote back edge of the Carraroe peninsula, to where the road ends at a place of such singular beauty that the first minutes are spent just marvelling at the faded colours of sand — which isn’t sand at all, but the fragmented remains of coral reef. Pastel pinks and yellows, peach and pale lemon, Carraroe’s secluded coves look as though some mad water-colourist spilled their paints between the rocky outcrops.

Deep in the heart of the Connemara Gaeltacht, the village and peninsula of Carraroe are a hotbed of Irish language and culture. The maritime festival, Féile an Dóilín, finishes with a stunning regatta of traditional Galway Hookers (until August 3; see doilin.com). Blue Flag.

Ballymastocker, Portsalon, Co Donegal

Put this long, graceful arc in a warmer climate and it would vie for inclusion on anyone's list of top 10 beaches in the world. It would also be inundated with people and high-rise beach resort excess. As it is, Ballymastocker only suffers the comparatively minor, low-rise excess of the holiday homes clustered around Portsalon. And a peak summer's day here might see the lifeguard, a few other swimmers, and the nearby Knockalla Mountains keeping watch.

Several kilometres south of Ballymastocker you'll find Macamish, a much smaller but no less beautiful beach, also a local favourite for a quiet swim. Access is through Otway Golf Club, one of Ireland's oldest courses. For everything from tins of beans to decent pints, try The Stores, formerly Rita's, at Portsalon pier. Blue Flag.

- Rick Le Vert

 
 

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