Taking the road to Damascus
Shopping bazaar in Damascus
Wednesday November 04 2009
Myself and two friends are planning a budget overland trip from Istanbul to Damascus in February for a week or two. Is travelling by rail the best option? We would like to fit in the main Syrian sights in a few days, if possible. Ronan, by email
It sounds like a great trip. Take two weeks, as you have so much ground to cover and some amazing sights to see along the way. You'll need a couple of days to explore Istanbul, and from there I suggest heading to the capital, Ankara -- this is more of a hub to pass through -- before continuing south. I recommend a day or two at Goreme in Cappadocia, home to the fascinating rock formations. It is also a good spot for hiking, and you'll have the opportunity to spend the night in a cave.
Moving on to Syria, you are most likely to end up in Aleppo, where you should spend at least one day immersing yourself in the souq; a wonderful place to get lost, do some shopping and graze on street food. From here, you could go to Hama -- home to an amazing collection of water wheels -- then east into the desert and the Roman ruins of Palmyra. You'll need a full day to experience this immense ancient site, and preferably a sunrise and sunset to see their full glory. Then it's on to one of the country's most famous sights, the ancient city of Damascus. You should give yourself a week in Syria to avoid rushing.
In both Turkey and Syria, buses are the most efficient means of transport. Rail services between the two countries are disrupted at present by the construction of high-speed lines in Turkey. For information on buses in Turkey see www.kamilkoc.com.tr and www.ulusoy.com.tr and you may also want to look into the Fez Bus (www.feztravel.com).
Turkish State Railways (www.tcdd.gov.tr) offer services through central and eastern Turkey. There are some express trains, such as between Istanbul and Ankara, but many others are slower and take surprisingly indirect routes.
In Syria, bus transport is frequent and cheap, and distances are short. Several kinds of buses ply the same routes, so go as high price as your budget will allow.
The only route where it might be worth taking the train is between Lattakia and Aleppo. It goes through spectacular countryside, starts and terminates in centrally located stations, has at least one reasonable departure time and is very comfortable.
- Tom Hall
Irish Independent
