Deal of the week - The Odessa Dame St. Dublin
The Odessa, Dame St., Dublin
The menu at The Odessa is wholesome and unpretentious and unlike many early bird menus is a wholehearted attempt to produce a good meal at a reasonable price, rather than a mere nod to the times we live in.
I began with a starter of chicken liver pate and red onion served with slices of ciabatta crouton. I was impressed at the richness of the pate, which despite the sweetness of the red onion compote came through to the fore. If you prefer the country comforts of a more textured pate, this perhaps isn't for you, but as I care not which way the coin lands on these matters it was perfect.
It was soon time for the main course and I must admit I erred slightly in my choice, not because the spinach and ricotta tortellini was in any way unpalatable, more so because my companion chose the confit of duck on a bed of pearl barley risotto, which was delicious.
Price aside, I often duck when it comes to duck, but on this occasion I wish I hadn't.
The duck melted off the bone into the folds of the soft barley risotto and was neither fatty nor dry. The jus complimented the dish without being too sweet or rich.
When asked whether everything was to our liking I replied that it was. As I sat back and thought for a moment whether this was really the case, it struck me that yes, everything was alright, more so even.
One warm and perfectly sticky toffee pudding later and safe in the folds of a worn leather armchair I began to think of why The Odessa might be the deal of the week. Looking around the answer came in the people around me.
As everyone seemed to warm to the food in a restaurant that had become comfortably busy, you get the feeling that those who come through the doors feel a sense of loyalty to the place. Simply, they look as though they come again and again and at €19 for three courses, The Odessa inspires more than a flying visit.
The Odessa is located on Dame Court, Dublin 2 and the early bird is available on Sundays and on Tuesday through to Friday until close of business. Two courses costs €16 with three for €19. Wine selections change frequently and are priced from €16 per bottle. Call 01 670 6734 to book.
- Sinead Van Kampen
