Friday 31 March 2017

Video: London Fashion Week: Christopher Kane autumn/winter 2012

Christopher Kane London Fashion Week a/w 2012
Christopher Kane London Fashion Week a/w 2012

Luke Leitch

Christopher Kane cruises into winter with a grungy collection perfect for a woman off to a dirty downtown soirée.

Last season it was bejewelled beach sandals, slashed dresses and beautiful metallic florals. So for winter Christopher Kane followed his yen for something rougher: "I've always wanted to do something dirty, grungy, rocky," he said: "It was that girl walking into a nightclub in a total downtown, dirty little place. It was dirty."

Soundtracked to music from the Al Pacino movie Cruising , Kane's grungy winter girl started in wide, thickly pinstriped leather skirts jackets and dresses and one pinstripe mink. Then, via some lilac and purple leopard skin ("so wrong it's good"), came a series of moiré dresses, their hologram sheen glowing a sickly blood red, royal blue and violet. These were bordered with pipes of wadded black leather used to create boxy front panels or knotted, X-shaped shoulder strapping. This black-bordering - very small-town nightclub banquette - was further deployed in dresses centred with grids of black "chainmail" squares through which was woven Scooby-Do colourful plastic wire (also used over cashmere jumpers).

There was a quilted jacket or two (this season's beach sandal?) and some grey denim at the end. Kane always revels in the technical details of finding new materials to play with - and that moiré was new. This time however he seemed just as taken with his visualisation of the disturbed, imperturbable women he imagined wearing these clothes as he sketched them, listening to that Cruising soundtrack.

He said: "I always think of moiré as being on the inside of a coffin. And that's why I like it. Deathly: she's on a mission. You think of girl in that moire dress. Super-clean, with that great eye-brow: nothing else. She's not even caring if she bumps into anyone. She could stand all night by herself and feel dead cool. She's a voyeur."

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