The 10 most talked about moments of Fashion Month
Published 07/10/2016 | 11:57
Guys, we did it. Fashion Month is officially over.
It was four memorable weeks of outrageous catwalk shows, surprise celebrity sightings (hello Whoopi), a dramatic jewellery theft and some seriously ugly shoes. Read on to relive the best moments from the month and get excited for Autumn Winter 2017- there are only 127 sleeps to go!
Bella took a tumble
It was quite the fashion month for one half of the industry’s most famous sister siblings. Bella Hadid made her presence felt in fashion by stalking down the runway for the likes of Philosophy, Moschino and opening for Fendi. There was, however, one unsightly incident in New York when Bella quite literally followed in the footsteps of supermodel Naomi Campbell by taking a tumble on the catwalk.
Walking for Michael Kors she tripped on her thick platform soles and her topple was caught up close by the hundreds of smart phone cameras pointed at the runway. Although Naomi’s fall was caught rather chicly from the photographer’s pit Bella’s is destined to be forever circulated on the internet, frame by painful frame.
If you thought Gucci’s fur lined slides epitomised the ugly-shoe trend currently rampaging down the catwalk, brace yourself. In London Christopher Kane took things one hideous step further by smothering the humble rubber Croc sandal with chunky shimmering crystals. Glitzy and ghastly in equal measure, these embellished monstrosities are what I deem car crash shoes- so bad you just can’t look away.
Perhaps it was a cruel joke from the upper echelons of the fashion world, but these shoes traditionally destined for a fisherman’s dinghy are more than likely to end up on the yachts of Ibiza come next summer. Mr Kane, you have a lot of explaining to do.
Fashion’s new guard
Crocs aside, this fashion month marked a new era for four major fashion houses as new Creative Directors took to the helm; Anthony Vaccarello at Yves Saint Laurent, Bouchra Jarrar at Lanvin, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior and Pierpaolo Piccioli without his former co-designer Chiuri at Valentino. The verdict is still out on Vaccarello’s debut for YSL, which featured thigh-high mini dresses and diamante body art, although his move to reinstate the ‘Yves’ in ‘Saint Laurent’ was applauded.
Jarrar’s collection for Lanvin breathed new life into the house known for dramatic, sumptuous evening wear with bright whites and contemporary fabric choices. Piccioli continued to produce the ethereal Gothic dresses that are now a Valentino signature. Chiuri’s debut at Dior was probably the most anticipated and she did not disappoint with a directional catwalk featuring feminist slogan tees, delicate tulle dresses and clean white shirting.
Homage to Bill Cunningham
In June fashion lost one of its great modern masters, Bill Cunningham. Credited with pioneering the street style movement Mr Cunningham’s photos for the New York Times were as absorbing as the man himself. Entirely effusive and humble to the core, his star was largely confined to the fashion world until the 2011 documentary Bill Cunningham New York. The film won both awards and legions of fans for Bill as we became acquainted with this hugely talented and decidedly eccentric man.
Despite being integral to the fashion world he shunned fashion himself, preferring to wear a simple blue workman’s coat sourced from hardware stores. On day one of New York Fashion Week all photographers were handed a blue workman’s jacket and the result was a beautifully blue photographer’s pit in honour of one of the industry’s greatest modern photographers.
Marc Jacobs' hairy situation
Another fashion week, another nasty accusation of cultural appropriation. This time it was Marc Jacobs who came under fire for styling his models with thick dreadlocks piled high on their heads. When the public took to social media to criticise the designer for referencing the traditionally African hair style whilst predominantly using Caucasian models the designer fought right back. Responding to the critique on Instagram he said “all who cry ‘cultural appropriation’ or whatever nonsense about any race or skin colour wearing their hair in any particular style or manner- funny how you don’t criticize women of colour for straightening their hair.”
He went on to apologise for his statement saying “I apologize for the lack of sensitivity unintentionally expressed by my brevity.” Despite the distasteful comments and questionable hairstyle of choice it’s unlikely this will have any real impact on Jacobs’ brand. I mean, if Galliano got away with that café rant…
As the seasons go by Balmain’s front row is more like the red carpet at the MTV Music Awards than a high fashion show. Due to Creative Director Olivier Rousteing’s budding friendships with the likes of the Kardashians the esteemed French fashion house has garnered itself a decidedly different fan base.
Kim Kardashian once again stole the show in a see-through ensemble, this time donning a crotchet cat suit with gaping holes showing her flesh coloured underwear. The Kardashian entourage was komplete with sister Kourtney, mother Kris and hubby Kanye as Rousteing’s typically provocative creations took to the runway. With attention increasingly moving from the catwalk to the celebrity scrum outside, you have to wonder if his alignment with Hollywood could do more harm than good in the end.
A super comeback
Whilst fashion is currently preoccupied with celebrity offspring models like Kendall Jenner, the Hadids and Hailey Baldwin this fashion month saw the triumphant return of the supermodel of yesteryear. Miley Cyrus’ ex Stella Maxwell and Gigi Hadid walked at Versace but the catwalk was undisputedly dominated by the return of Naomi Campbell. Bottega Veneta brought in a rake of seasoned professionals including Eva Herzigova and Karen Elson, while 72-year-old Lauren Hutton closed the show with Hadid. Brazilian model Raquel Zimmermann and Russian Sasha Pivovarova reigned supreme ten years ago and both made a comeback at Prada and Yves Saint Laurent respectively. Who did it better, you ask? In with old, out with the new I say.
Rihanna was fabulous in France
Rhianna, Puma and Paris; it was a winning combination for music’s most stylish songstress. Presenting her second collection for her Fenty x Puma line at the decadent Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild Rhianna was the perfect pin-up girl to promote her own line. Inspired by Marie Antoinette the collection was typically Ri-Ri- sportswear amped up with saccharine shades of pink, sheer mesh, oriental motifs, boudoir corsets, sweatpants and platform high tops. Taking a bow on the catwalk she fanned herself with a dainty handheld fan emblazoned with PUMA whilst wearing a typically understated ensemble- pearl choker, floor length pink lace trench and matching lace trousers.
Kim Kardashian’s terrifying ordeal
Unsurprisingly, this fashion month’s biggest scandal was down to Kim Kardashian. Alone in her Paris apartment, the 32-year-old was mobbed at gunpoint by five assailants who proceeded to take off with an estimated €9 million worth of jewellery. The furore that Kim so effortlessly stirs up is showing no signs of unrelenting despite the terrifying nature of the ordeal.
Many people have taken the opportunity to mock and belittle the star who had a gun pointed at her head as her feet were bound and mouth gagged with duct tape. Some may find it difficult to find any sympathy for the filthy rich reality star but the vitriol being hurled at somebody for being the victim of a serious assault is somewhat worrying. It’s already being said that she is also the victim of ingrained misogyny but there is one man who would certainly be just as vilified if they were in her situation; Kanye, a man as arrogant as Kim is shameless.
Chanel’s electrifying set
Season after season Karl Lagerfeld and his team at Chanel create larger than life sets, each more fantastic than the last. Autumn Winter ’14 was the Chanel supermarket, an intricately stocked supermarket with over 100, 000 goods. Last October there was the departures lounge for Chanel Airlines, complete with check-in desks and custom luggage. Resort ’17 saw Old Havana in Cuba taken over by Chanel as models like Gisele lounged on vintage sports cars.
This fashion week Karl returned to Paris and unveiled the grand Chanel Data Centre, a futuristic digital hub that was a mass maze of coloured cables and glass walls. The show was opened by two storm troopers wearing Chanel tweed suits, naturally, with white helmets covering their faces. Lagerfeld’s outrageous sets just about overshadow the collection which, if you are interested, featured short matching tweed suits in vibrant pinks and greens, long chiffon slips cinched at the waist with chunky belts and baseball hats worn sideways in the label’s signature woven fabric.