Roland Mouret autumn/winter 2011 at Paris Fashion Week
Published 04/03/2011 | 15:23
Hot on the heels of opening his new London headquarters, Roland Mouret delivers an immaculate collection, says Hilary Alexander.
Inspired by early pictures of the young Lady Diana Spencer, in a filmy, printed skirt, shirt, and little knitted vest that could have been borrowed from her brother, Roland Mouret invested his autumn/winter 2011 collection with a soft, floaty, flowing ambience, "like perfume on a breeze."
Fresh from the opening, during London Fashion Week, of his magnificent new, six-storey headquarters and flagship store, in a Grade one listed mansion, in Mayfair, Mouret was in a confident mood, at the Paris prêt-à-porter season this morning.
The looser line was created with clever tucks and folds, open pleats and the ingenious draping which has been a feature of Mouret's work since he first showed at London Fashion Week, in 1998.
And the gentleness of his approach was underscored by a soft colour palette of lilac, duck-egg blue, buttermilk, taupe, grey and beige, together with his customary black, navy, mustard and khaki, and occasional shots of kelly-green, parma-violet, ruby, and cobalt.
Mouret also introduced fur, in the form of throw-on vests, little boleros, and draped jackets, in stripes of lilac, black, and mustard, which co-ordinated with the prints and jacquard knitwear.
Hemlines were generally below the knee, but a shorter mini played to the leggy brigade.
The incisive quality of Mouret's cut drew the eye in immaculate, seamed, zippered jackets with a small peplum, or else a draped, face-framing collar; in bomber-jackets and military-look wool trench-coats, which came with wide-leg tweed trousers; and in parachute silk dresses, both short and long, with fluttering side-panels with the merest suggestion of transparency, which related directly to Mouret's initial reference point.
But what would a collection by the inventor of the famous "Galaxy" dress be without something which cleaved more to the body? Mouret did not disappoint on that front either.