New York Fashion Week: Diane Von Furstenberg spring/summer 2011
Diane Von Furstenberg introduced Yvan Mispeleare, a new designer for her eponymous line
Diane Von Furstenberg confessed she was "a little nervous" backstage before her show. She was introducing a new designer for her eponymous line, Yvan Mispeleare - a man who has paid his dues at a host of big labels, including Gucci, Balenciaga and Prada. But how were the press and buyers going to react?
Diane's theme for spring/summer 2011 was "Goddess" and to make sure Yvan got into the psyche of this elusive muse, she had taken him to Paris to see an exhibition about Isadora Duncan, and then on to Greece to experience the architecture and the blue, blue of the Mediterranean sky.
It sure worked. This was no replay of the Delphic oracles, no cavalcade of temple maidens in drapery. Instead, Mispeleare had based his collection on powerful graphics inspired by the friezes one might see at Knossos or on ancient urns. Printed large and small, they featured on loose, easy silk separates - boxy, swing-back jackets, with Capri-pants, hooded, sleeveless jumpsuits, kaftans and swirling djellaba-coats, and blousons worn with cuffed shorts.
The colour mix was purple and gold, or tan and lime, or black and white with gold, interspersed with vibrant shots of plain violet, cerulean blue, from ancient times used to represent the sky. The swirls and arabesques were repeated in silver beading, mixed with orange, black and white, for fabulous 'frescoe' dresses, sashed with a silken cord - the same cord which wrapped around the ankles of the two- and three-tone platforms, and drawstringed the tasselled duffle-bags which the models swung. The "goddess" emerged subtlety - in a dress casually knotted to one side, and a stunning gold lamé long column (Ionic? Doric? Corinthian?) gown which ever so softly wrapped to one side.