Gareth Pugh autumn/winter 2011 at Paris Fashion Week
Published 03/03/2011 | 16:34
Gareth Pugh returns to the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week with gothic Star Wars parade.
After three seasons of showing his collections in experimental videos, the avant-garde British designer, Gareth Pugh, returned to the catwalk at the Paris prêt-à-porter season this evening.
His autumn/winter 2011 collection was a dramatic continuation of the fashion video made by the British-based film-maker, Ruth Hogben, which was premiered at Pitti Immagine in Florence in January.
The collection, like the video, was inspired by the centuries-old tradition of Florentine art and culture, and referenced Catholic iconography in rich shades of deep-blue and gold.
Pugh staged his showing in the Ecole des Beaux Arts, to a thunderous, pounding soundtrack which perfectly suited the Stars Wars-style designs, razor-sharp in black leather and stretch, bisected with golden zips, and worn with fearsome wedge-sole boots, and "alien eyes" courtesy of what looked like the gold metallic "glasses" worn in a sun-tanning salon.
Sculpted, leather "frock-coats", with skin-tight trousers, suggested a cyber-age dandy. Striped leather ponchos, offered a softer silhouette, also suggested in the wafting gothic cloaks in chiffon and the extreme-palazzo trousers, as wide as a house, worn by both the male and female models.
"Articulated" leather body-con dresses, engineered in remarkable set-square patterns, defined the silhouette.
Brilliant blue crepe and gleaming gold metallic sequins, embroidered in a tile pattern, provided a colour burst to offset the midnight parade, while hooded "witches" cloaks, bright blue "eye shades" and teeth gleaming under the spotlights from LED mouthpieces created the effect of creatures from a distant planet.