Saturday 22 July 2017

Galliano displays his brilliance in absentia

Model Karlie Kloss presents a creation by British designer John Galliano during the Autumn/Winter 2011-2012 ready-to-wear collection show on March 6, 2011 in Paris. AFP PHOTO/Francois Guillot (Photo credit should read FRANCOIS GUILLOT/AFP/Getty Images)
Model Karlie Kloss presents a creation by British designer John Galliano during the Autumn/Winter 2011-2012 ready-to-wear collection show on March 6, 2011 in Paris. AFP PHOTO/Francois Guillot (Photo credit should read FRANCOIS GUILLOT/AFP/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 06: A model walks the runway at the John Galliano fashion show during Paris Fashion Week on March 6, 2011 in Paris, France. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation by British designer John Galliano during the Autumn/Winter 2011-2012 ready-to-wear collection show on March 6, 2011 in Paris. AFP PHOTO/Francois Guillot (Photo credit should read FRANCOIS GUILLOT/AFP/Getty Images)

Hilary Alexander

John Galliano's autumn/winter 2011 collection, which went ahead without him, was a reminder of his design brilliance.

The British designer, John Galliano, was not in Paris for the unveiling of his autumn/winter 2011 collection.

But his spirit was vividly evident in an emotionally staged presentation which recalled the romantic and seductive power of his vision.

Galliano, 50, was sacked from his position as creative director of Christian Dior last week, after an anti-Semitic scandal for which he is due to stand trial in France in the summer. He is currently believed to be in rehab in the United States.

The president of Christian Dior Couture, Sidney Toledano, was among the audience for Sunday night's showing of the Galliano collection.

Toledano had said before the Dior catwalk show last Friday that it had "been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be."



The intimate presentation, held in a flower and antique-strewn mansion in the Avenue Foch, recalled the glory days of Galliano's early years in Paris.

The models strolled across Turkish carpets in hourglass tweed and wool suiting, fringed and trimmed with fur and accessorised with feathered head-pieces; cashmere cocoon coats with stitched, satin hems; and open-back, printed silk shirts, tucked into draped pencil skirts, lavished with bows on one side.



A tapering, kimono-coat, in celadon-green, lavishly embroidered, and embellished with black fox, evoked Galliano's fascination with the 1920's. A black PVC and black tulle short, belted 'mac', worn with a violet chiffon slip dress, was a reminder of his ability to suggest sensuality.

Telegraph.co.uk

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