Sunday 25 June 2017

Flamboyant Gaultier ruffles feathers

a model
wears a
Jean Paul
Gaultier
creation at
his Paris
Fashion
Week show
a model wears a Jean Paul Gaultier creation at his Paris Fashion Week show

Julia Robson in Paris

For three decades, Jean Paul Gaultier has strived to keep fun within fashion. But sometimes his quirky take on clothes has seen him sidelined in the grand scheme of things.

At his lavish show yesterday near the Pompidou Centre in Paris, France, the designer who first proposed skirts for men in the 1980s was still being controversial -- and playing on the androgyny theme.

Gaultier haute couture gallery

More than 50pc of clothes shown were menswear, a ploy to flag up the fact he was to launch a new menswear fragrance called Kokorico.

They included foppish, dandyish capes and shiny, black satin tailcoats.

Sitting front row was actor Matt Smith, AKA Dr Who, with girlfriend Daisy Lowe. Was he picking out a wardrobe for his dandyish Time Lord character perhaps?

"No, I'm just here because Daisy's here," he said, being yanked away by Lowe who was wearing a pink satin Gaultier bustier dress and supersized heels that made her tower over her boyfriend. "I loved the men's stuff though," Smith added.

The womenswear was equally flamboyant and equally aimed at fabulously wealthy fashion victims.

Ballet

In a show with light references to 'Black Swan' and ballet, Gaultier kicked off with a woman's pin-stripe suit that had a tutu incorporated into the peplum.

Among the dressing-up-box pieces were plenty of wardrobe essentials -- like a sweeping camel coat, grey cashmere sweater encrusted with a crystal 'Aran'-style pattern and classic wide-leg trousers.

Following a finale featuring the most successful French recording artist of all time, Mylene Farmer, dressed in tight leather jacket, net mini-crinoline and giant platforms, Gaultier bounded onstage in one of his tailcoats, offering Farmer a rather conventional floral bouquet.

Then off he went to join the party to launch his new menswear fragrance, which should net him a fortune. How nice to be Jean Paul Gaultier.

Irish Independent

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