Wednesday 22 October 2014

The Panel: Gothic girl

Sarah Caden

Published 22/11/2012 | 09:13

Tom Ford Lip Colour in Black Orchid; Stila Lip Glaze in Black Cherry; Mac Nail Lacquer in Vintage Vamp; Yves Saint Laurent Pure Chromatics Wet and Dry Eyeshadow in No 19; Chanel Nail Polish in Vertigo.

When it comes to this winter’s gothic trend, with its echoes of the Eighties, those who can get away with really ramping it up are those who weren’t even born in that decade.

Deep, deep plums, purples, greys and almost-blacks abound in cosmetics this season, for eyes, lips and nails, but if you’re going to wear them all at once, you need to be very young and very, very fresh-faced. Otherwise, you’re just going to look like you have barely recovered from pneumonia or that you have conjunctivitis.

So, slap the goth on all over if you’ve never heard of Siouxsie Sioux. For anyone over 24, though, this intense, powerful and almost monochromatic look should be worn as a single strong note — with nearly bare eyes and cheeks if you’re doing lips; and neutral, matt lips if you’re doing eyes. With nails, it’s a nuance of goth and this may be the flourish of choice of those who were burned by the trend 30 years ago.

BEST OVERALL

Tom Ford Lip Colour in Black Orchid, €45, Brown Thomas Dublin and Cork It cannot be denied that this lipstick is expensive, and you must be convinced that you will be bold enough to wear it before you buy. It’s a fabulously dark plum, with not much pink, and works as a daytime stain if you dab it on with your fingertips. The other option is to apply it full-on, for an outrageously dramatic look. A good mascara is the only other make-up you’ll need. “This is gorgeous and so different to anything else I own,” said a panellist. “It’s lip colour that looks like you’ve gorged on damsons.”

BEST SLICK LIPS

Stila Lip Glaze in Black Cherry, €18.59, Harvey Nichols, Dundrum Town Centre, D16 If you’re really fearful of going goth, laying a dark gloss over your favourite lipstick can tweak your look towards this trend. This brand has recently returned to Ireland, much to the delight of fans of their Convertible Colour pots and these twist-up lip glosses. This colour is blackly purple and gives good goth. “I missed these pens of plush pigment,” a panellist said, “and this is a deliciously dark colour.” BEST VAMPISH NAILS Mac Nail Lacquer in Vintage Vamp, €12.50, Brown Thomas and BT2 This is a deep burgundy from the brand’s new, permanent collection of nail polishes; it’s one of the cream finishes, meaning that it hasn’t a hint of shimmer or glitter but is very rich and velvety. A great alternative to classic scarlet, this makes pale hands look beautifully porcelain. “It’s very easy to apply and two coats gave a deeply dense effect,” said one panellist. “Vamp is right.”

BEST DARK EYES

Yves Saint Laurent Pure Chromatics Wet and Dry Eyeshadow in No 19, €53, Yves Saint Laurent counters nationwide A strongly sultry smoky eye is easily achieved with this quad of shimmery shadows, the colours of which range from a highlighting pearl colour to a dark graphite, with a grey and a purple in between. Used wet, you get a creamy effect with enhanced pigment; there’s no denying that this is a night-time, dark-side look. “Gorgeously gothic when you allow these colours to combine on the eyes and keep everything else light,” one panellist said.

BEST BOLD NAILS

Chanel Nail Polish in Vertigo, €22, Chanel counters nationwide If you like how this brand does its darker shades, then you will love this. It’s murky and nearly muddy, but beautifully, gothically so. In the bottle, you see purple and shimmer shot through the murk, but on the nails, it’s unapologetically a dark grey-brown. “If you thought Rouge Noir was the ultimate gothic nail, then think again,” said one panellist. “This is the new black; rich, imperceptibly multi-toned, and skin-flattering.”

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