Style Beauty

Monday 5 December 2016

Beauty: The ultimate chick flick

How to master A-list eyeliner

Andrea Byrne

Published 24/05/2015 | 02:30

Angelina Jolie
Angelina Jolie
Gel liner, €15, Inglot, available in Inglot stores nationwide
Soft Angled #266 Brush, €21, MAC, available in Brown Thomas and BT2 stores nationwide
They're Real Push-up gel liner, €25, Benefit, available in department stores nationwide

Applying eyeliner to the upper lid is undoubtedly one of the most feared make-up techniques and yet it never, ever goes out of style, and when you think of some of the most beautiful women in the world, past and present - Audrey Hepburn, Twiggy, Brigitte Bardot, Kate Moss and Angelina Jolie (pictured), - eyeliner is their signature look.

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Done right, it's very gamine, and really wakes up the complexion. Done wrong, and you're left to resemble a raccoon.

According to Sarah Keary, one of Ireland's busiest make-up artists, liquid liner is essential to defining and emphasising eyes, and is a look that suits everyone. "There is a wide variety of different applicators and formulas on the market nowadays that really work to take the complication out of liquid eyeliner application," says Sarah.

The key, like anything, is practice and the right products. Whether you use a gel formula or a liquid pen is entirely subjective. Liquid pens tend to have glossier pigments and can create sharper lines, but gel tends to have better staying power and it's much easier to build thicker lines with. You'll know when you've found your perfect eyeliner, because you'll vow then and there never to be without it.

The Dos and Don'ts

● Don't leave a gap between your liner and eyelashes, advises Sarah. If you can see your skin peeking through, you've done it wrong.

● Liquid liner is too harsh for the ­lower lid, so only use it on the top lid to ­create beautiful cat eyes. Leave pencil liner or eyeshadow for the bottom.

● Make sure you don't outline your whole eye with liquid liner in one thick line. Outlining the entire shape actually closes them in and makes them appear smaller. Apply a gradual thin-to-thick line on the top lash line and only a thin, softly smudged pencil eyeliner on the waterline.

● If your hand isn't steady enough for liquid eyeliner, line your eyes first with a pencil liner, and then trace over it with liquid or gel.

● If you've smudged your liner, draw over it with a skin-coloured liner instead of wiping it off and starting over.

andrea byrne tells you how to master a-list eyeliner

How to apply liquid eyeliner:

Your step-by-step guide from make-up artist Sarah Keary, sarahkeary.ie

1. Start by applying concealer all over the eyelid and under the eye. Apply a light amount of loose powder over the concealer to set. This eliminates redness and creates a perfect base.

2. If you're using gel eyeliner, apply it using an eyeliner brush. I love MAC's #266 brush (left).

3. Run the tip of your eyeliner brush or the brush that comes with your liquid eyeliner along your hand to remove excess fluid. This also gives you more control over how much gets distributed.

4. Start from the middle of the eye. Begin drawing a thin line that should extend slightly past the outer corners of the eyes. Use a finger from your opposite hand to lift your eyelid slightly, ensuring the skin is taut, so that you can draw as closely to your lashes as possible.

5. Now, return to the centre of your eyes and, without adding any more product to your brush, paint short strokes until you reach your tear ducts. To get the thinnest line here, use the tip of your brush and look up and outward in a mirror.

6. To finish your basic everyday liner look, dip a cotton bud in an oil-free eye make-up remover and drag it along the edges of your liner.

7. Allow your eyeliner to dry before opening your eyes fully, as you don't want it to imprint any liner on to your eyelid creases.

8. If you're looking for a more feline cat-eye effect, add a liner flick from the outer corner of the eye. Join the eyeliner that goes along the top of your eye to the liner you created from the outer corner of your eye.

Eyeliner toolkit

They're Real Push-up gel liner, Benefit,  €25, available in department stores nationwide

A foolproof eyeliner, it's super easy to use and glides on in seconds thanks to a smooth gel formula and clever angled tip.

Gel liner, Inglot, €15, available in Inglot stores

The creamy and delicate long-lasting formula dries to a smudge proof, and crease-free finish. Sarah applies this using a MAC #266 brush.

Soft Angled #266 Brush, MAC,  €21, available in Brown Thomas and BT2 stores nationwide

The best eyeliner brush around. It makes gel application so easy.

Exaggerate Liquid eyeliner, Rimmel, €7.29, available nationwide

By far, the best budget liner on the market, it allows for fluid, dramatic statement lines and retro flicks.

L'Ecriture de Chanel in Noir, Chanel, €33.50, available in key department stores nationwide

A bold black eyeliner that's easy to apply, doesn't drag or flake and is incredibly long-wearing. Worth every penny.

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