Friday 26 May 2017

Gwyneth's clean eating has its chips

Paltrow led the clean eating phenomenon, but now she's calling 'shunty nuts' on the phenomenon

Real food: Actress Gwyneth Paltrow is calling a halt to extreme heatlhy eating Photo: Charley Gallay/Getty Images for Diane Von Furstenberg
Real food: Actress Gwyneth Paltrow is calling a halt to extreme heatlhy eating Photo: Charley Gallay/Getty Images for Diane Von Furstenberg

Sarah Caden

At one time, comedian Dylan Moran did a bit in his stand-up show about competitive dinner-party cooking. He did a whole spiel about how people strove to out-do each other at coming up with more obscure dishes and ingredients than the last hosts until it spiralled insanely out of control and someone ended up cooking some unheard of small animal, served on a bed of 'shunty nuts'.

Part of the joke was that no one would question the shunty nuts. The madness had gone so far that the diners would accept them, for fear of seeming foodie-ignorant if they didn't. That was about 20 years ago, long before we lost the run of ourselves on kale smoothies, acai-bowl breakfasts and anything-but-flour baking. And lost our sense of humour.

Clean eating isn't just deadly serious, it's seriously big business. It has made celebrities of many bloggers, from Deliciously Ella to Madeleine Shaw and on and on, and the queen bee of it has always been Gwyneth.

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