Eoghan Harris: A tour and a testimony in the cold Polish winter
The tour bus calls before first light. It is bitterly cold. Krakow, the most beautiful city in Poland, is hunched down in the dark depth of winter.
The bus leaves the city behind. The winter sun wakes and strobes through the forests of tall spare trees, standing like stripped telegraph poles on the snow-covered plains.
Tibi, one of our tour guides, is 80 years of age, but full of boyish beans. He has the hooked nose, bronzed face and hard-bitten humour of a Roman gladiator. He has a tale to tell.