Independent.ie > Lifestyle > Independent Woman > Health & Fitness

Spawatch: Unwind in style at the Lough Erne Golf Resort

Javascript is needed to use most of these tools:

Print
Text size

By Gemma Fullam
Sunday Apr 19 2009

Spas should be opulent, luxurious and cocooning, writes Gemma Fullam, and the Lough Erne Golf Resort, with its fluffy robes and Thai therapists, is exactly that.

I think it was Blur who came up with the phrase 'modern life is rubbish' via an album title. Their pithiness was never more apt, what with pay cuts, levies and tax increases a go-go. I, along with half the country, was in sore need of a break. And so, to a soundtrack of North Kerry jigs and hornpipes on Ceili House, I drove from Dublin to the lacustrine bliss of Lough Erne Golf Resort, a few miles outside Enniskillen.

Tastefully designed with Fermanagh's vernacular architecture of dovecotes in mind, the main building is a striking juxtaposition of turrets and castellated walls. All is rendered in a pale, buttery hue that sits easily alongside the lushness of this countryside.

On arrival, weary from work and the lateness of the hour, I met a warm welcome and a complimentary bottle of Nick Faldo red in my room. No, he hasn't swopped golf for winemaking; the famous golfer has designed the spectacular course at Lough Erne, more of which anon.

I was in one of the resort's 120 bedrooms, which are a five-star delight -- as are its six suites and 25 plush lodges. The beds are huge and supremely comfortable. Bathrooms, luxurious but winningly un-hotelish, boast a separate bath and shower.

A couple of glasses of wine later, I hopped into the gigantic bed, reluctantly discarding my fluffy, white robe. The resort was hosting a wedding, but not a peep of revelry nor a bar of Dancing Queen was to be heard, and I drifted off to sleep, relaxed and happy.

Next morning, I awoke to birds twittering on the lake -- the resort is flanked by Castlehume Lough on one side and Lough Erne on the other. Downstairs, breakfast was a sumptuous affair, with everything from traditional Ulster farls to a wide array of fruit and juices -- although I have to admit to real temptation by the 24-hour room-service menu's champagne breakfast. Next time.

Breakfast enjoyed, I went on a tour of the golf course with Dave Peden, golf sales manager. I'm far from an aficionado, but it's impossible not to appreciate the undulating beauty of the Faldo-designed course. With the loughs incorporated as hazards, sand-capped fairways and not a weak hole in the 18, the course is already enthusing golfers worldwide.

Like everything else at Lough Erne, it has unique touches. A bothy-style house is currently under construction, and will serve as a halfway house at the ninth hole. Players will be able to avail of an intercom system and have their Tanqueray and tonic waiting for them. Genius. At night, this halfway house will transform into a seafood restaurant. Set where it is on a hill, overlooking the lapping waters of the lough, it's hard to imagine a more idyllic aspect for a meal.

Tour over, it was time to hit the spa. This resort features the only Thai spa in Ireland and Britain. To boost the experience's authenticity, therapists are Thai natives.

I don't like minimalist spas. If I want minimalism, I'll go to a John Cage concert. Spas should be opulent, cocooning, warm, luxurious. This one is certainly that.

Decorated in muted shades of plum and chocolate, with gilded mosaics and walnut floors, the ambience instantly transported me, contra Nanci Griffith, to an oriental state of mind. Another fluffy robe later, I was led to the pre-treatment relaxation room, and offered a fruit smoothie and some water as I lounged on a rattan daybed before spectacular views.

At precisely the appointed time May, my therapist, appeared, petite and dressed in the spa's uniform of ochre-hued, palazzo pants and a burnished-gold Susie Wong jacket. Then to the treatment room, decorated in the same restful style -- and dimly lit, another plus.

May motioned me to sit in a cushioned armchair, gently placing my feet in a scented, warm, floral foot-bath. She then washed and dried my feet, one at a time, her touch careful, reassuring, firm. The process had a ritualistic feel to it, not least because of May's Zen demeanour. I felt myself relax.

Next came the main event. I had requested a Royal Power Massage. I have experienced many types, including the particularly intense tui na, but this one was in a league all of its own. May concentrated her efforts on legs, arms and shoulders, varying between traditional effleurage and firm pressure, using her hands, forearms and elbows.

Combined, both kinds felt relaxing and therapeutic; my neck and shoulder area, which regularly seizes up, began to loosen. Without any prompting, May detected this area as a problem and gave it extra attention at the end. She had me sit upright on the bed and, standing up behind me on the couch, she concentrated her full body pressure onto the trouble spots.

I can't say this approach was entirely pleasant: it wasn't, and I had to do some deep breathing to get through it. But, more than a week later, I'm still totally pain-free in my shoulder and neck area, which is unprecedented.

Massage over, I retired to the post-treatment relaxation room for green tea and fresh fruit. Situated in one of the turrets, it has more stunning views over reed-fringed Lough Erne. As I lay there, drinking green tea and munching speckled dragon fruit, the recession receded.

I ate later in the Catalina Restaurant, all delicate shades of eau-de-nil and cream, as sublime as the food. The highlight was local venison from Colebrooke, exquisitely cooked and tender as the night. Chef Noel McMeel came out to chat to diners after service finished. Like all staff at Lough Erne, he has infectious enthusiasm and pride in his job. Utterly refreshing. Back in the comfort of my stupendous bed, I couldn't help but think modern life isn't so bad after all.

A magical place.

Lough Erne Golf Resort, Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Fermanagh, DT93 7ED, Northern Ireland, tel: (048) 6632-3230, or see www.loughernegolfresort.com

- Gemma Fullam