Monday, February 13 2012

It’s awkward if you have to fondle the director’s wife

Reflections on male grooming

There's no getting away from it -- men who want to get ahead need to look after their appearance, writes Declan Cashin

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By Declan Cashin
Friday May 9 2008

Not too long ago, male grooming used to consist merely of a disposable razor shave and a quick haircut that cost the equivalent of a pint -- and even then, that was considered extravagant.

But the face of the traditional Irish male has changed -- literally. Now that face is more likely to be tanned, well-toned and glowing from the facial he received at the weekend.

A Euromonitor report last January stated that €800m was spent last year in Ireland on men's grooming products, an increase of €200m since 2001.

A similar survey from Datamonitor also found that men spend an average of 3.1 hours per week looking in the mirror, compared to 2.5 hours spent by women doing the same thing. What's more, some 40pc of men replied that they considered their skin "extremely or very important".

The phenomenon of male primping and preening has even reached the highest levels of government. Outgoing Taoiseach Bertie Ahern spent almost €22,000 on make-up services and cosmetics last year, which was actually down from the €25,500 he spent on foundation and concealer in 2006.

These changing trends all suggest that the so-called 'metrosexual' lifestyle pioneered by the likes of David Beckham and Brad Pitt has firmly taken root in the Irish male's psyche.

"There's been a definite change in attitude in recent years," explains Janet Clarke, general manager of The Grooming Rooms, a men-only salon that has just opened in South William Street in Dublin.

"Men feel much more comfortable admitting that they've had treatments done, whereas before they would have been teased and slagged. I think women are all for it and are delighted that their fellas will get cleaned up.

'I think a lot of guys will come to places like ours for a hair treatment or hot towel shave first. It's less daunting, but when that guy comes in and hears about the other services and feels comfortable, he has no qualms about asking for something more adventurous like a pedicure or facial.

"I like to think that men are more confident about looking after themselves. Largely, it's got to do with the culture of travelling abroad. It's like the food and fashion industries -- people's eyes are being opened up to new things. So, for instance, men will see other guys in Italy or America who really look after themselves, so they see that it's done and socially acceptable.

"The media does have a role too, of course. Men look at the likes of David Beckham who is really into his appearance, but is a real man's man too as a professional footballer. If he can walk around in a sarong and get his hair coloured, then other men will consider it too."

Fiona Looney, managing director of 4men.ie, an online retailer of male grooming products, agrees. "There's an aspirational aspect to it, but they're not doing it to impress girls. I do believe it's for themselves. If guys look good, they feel good," she says.

"Our research has shown that men's first introduction to grooming products is through their partners, or even their mothers. But guys are much more clued in now thanks to advertising, particularly in men's magazines, so they're aware that their skin needs its own kind of regime.

"We've found that men are most interested in shaving products, so they don't mind splashing out on more expensive kinds. They then come back and try out other products, like moisturisors, eye gels and even alternatives to Botox, such as collagen creams. There are some younger guys who are more into cosmetics and tinted moisturisers and so on, but the majority's needs are pretty simple and they just want their skin to look good."

I spend €150 every month on grooming

Michael Kissane (26) is a financial accountant with a Dublin-based investment and development company. He proudly puts some effort into his grooming techniques, concentrating mostly on his face and hair.

"All together, I spend about €150 a month on everything. I exfoliate every three days and use a good moisturisor twice a day. I also use an eye cream and L'oreal have a collagen cream I use occasionally. I get a facial maybe every six weeks or so.

"I spend maybe €40-60 on a haircut every four weeks, and I get it done in a professional salon. I get my eyebrows tidied up too if they needed it. I never get professional shaves done because I have my own routine and it works for me.

"I use a body moisturiser after I take a shower, and use a teeth whitening kit a few times a year. I don't get massages regularly. I had one done in January because I got a voucher for Christmas.

"I'd use a sunbed maybe if I was coming from a holiday and wanted to keep the tan for a bit longer. When I'm going out for a night, it takes about half an hour to get ready, a bit longer if I have to shave.

"I had a manicure once but it wasn't for me," he says. "I also had my chest waxed once to see what it was like, but it was just a once-off. I won't be doing that again!"

Back, sack and crack - some amount of pain

As an actor and presenter on RTE's low budget travel show How Low Can You Go, Baz Ashmawy (33) is used to having his appearance looked after. But, nothing could prepare him for that most extreme of male grooming experiences during the latest series of the show -- the notorious 'back, sack and crack' wax.

"We were in LA and they have this obsession with men having no hair on their bodies and the women love it," Baz says. "It's very common for men over there to do the sack, back and crack, and we decided one of us would do it.

"The after-effect is fine because it's neat, but Jesus it's some amount of pain at the time and I wouldn't go through it again.

"I used to be a lot more conscious of my appearance than I am now. I suffer from that common male thing where I'm really just not interested enough in it.

"If I feel rundown I'll put a bit more effort in. If you look wrecked it's very noticeable in this line of work.

"Every now and again, I'll throw on a good moisturiser like L'Oreal Men's Range or Clarins. I'm getting to the stage where I need to start taking better care of myself -- I'm getting on a bit!

"It wouldn't take me that long to get ready if I was going out. I'd be ready to go in about half an hour. I'm more into my clothes anyway. I'd spend about e60-e80 a month on grooming stuff altogether."

- Declan Cashin

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