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Button it -- the cardigan is back

Normally the preserve of grandads, cardies are cool again. But do they make men sexy? Roxanne Parker investigates

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By Roxanne Parker
Friday Mar 14 2008

There is something deeply stale, moth eaten and frumpy about a man in a cardigan. Like aspidistras and three porcelain ducks flying up a wall, the cardigan stands proud as an emblem of middle England and the Dad's Army brigade.

Even the godlike figure of David Beckham seemed to morph into the grandad from the Werther's Originals ad when he recently posed for photographers in a dull beige button cardi complete with golf-style diamond pattern.

Despite the cardigan's obvious lack of sex appeal, men are eagerly lapping up this latest trend. Asda, a UK retailer, recently released sales figures showing that its fashion label, George, has sold more cardigans in the past two months then they have in the past three years. Buyers claim that the Val Doonican look has replaced the hoodie due to its association with the ASBO generation.

Beckham isn't the only celebrity cottoning on to the cardigan. Other heart throbs such as Daniel Craig, DJ/producer Mark Ronson, and indie musicians such as The Kooks, The Ordinary Boys, Johnny Borrell and actor James McAvoy are all donning this dull attire.

Our own Brian O'Driscoll sported the look at the Meteor Music Awards. Dressed in a bright green wool variety, O'Driscoll looked as though he was so in love with his rugby shirt he'd decided to wear a dressy version on the red carpet.

For the first time ever men are hitting the shops in their droves and buying cardigans for themselves. A first, claim Asda, who say sales in menswear are always led by women shopping for their men.

But in fairness, what woman in her right mind would willingly dress her man in this god-awful grandad garb? When Beckham can't even carry off the look, what hope is there for mere mortal men?

High-street chain and purveyors of all things cool, All Saints confirmed that cardigans are just as popular with Irish men as they are in the UK.

A spokesperson for the group said: "The cardigan is in the top five best-selling items in All Saints. Our stores haven't noticed a jump in sales in 2008-- but sales have been consistent. People tend to know to come to All Saints to buy cardigans and skinny V-neck sweaters which are quite distinctive with our signature rams head motif," added the spokesperson.

So, what is it about the cardigan that men have fallen for? Irish-born fashion journalist Godfrey Deeny, who has contributed to L'Uomo Vogue and who currently covers fashion shows around the globe for Fashion Wire Daily, says: "I have four cardigans and I wear them more than sweaters. I wear my black Prada cashmere cardi with suits or even with leather pants from Gap 1969 -- kinda Jim Morrison buys a country estate!"

While cashmere and Prada would soften the blow of any offending garment in your man's wardrobe, doesn't a cardigan make men look chunky? Looking at beefier male specimens such as Beckham, O'Driscoll and Craig attempting to carry off the look, it's clear that chests and cardigans don't go.

However, skinnier male counterparts Mark Ronson and other stick insect indie-band members manage to make the item look beatnik and slightly hip with their waif-like frames.

However, Deeny believes that the cardi flatters the male form" "Besides being more comfortable than a pullover, cardigans make you look slimmer, as you are meant to leave open the lowest button, which is forgiving for your silhouette.

"My latest is by my new favourite men's line, Malo. They make really great cashmere and fine wool knits. The Malo one has a very deep gorge, i.e. the top button is down below your heart and it gives the look a bit of panache."

Although Becks tried this style tip of leaving the bottom button of his cardi undone, it still did nothing for his sporty frame -- which may be the root of why women loathe cardigans; we are naturally predisposed to find broad shoulders and chests attractive, and the cardigan disguises these assets under a pensioner's smokescreen of wool and buttons.

PR whiz Tara O'Connor agrees that there is nothing sexy about a man in a cardi.

"It's hilarious that men think a cardigan is trendy -- they just make me think of grandads. My advice to men is to dress your age and don't just copy Beckham -- who was clearly having a wardrobe malfunction on the scale of his previous male sarong episode. There are plenty of trendy clothes out there to choose from -- save the cardigan for retirement."

Illustrator and trained fashion designer David Uda is a cardi fan.

"Cardigans rock! From grandads to new ravers, they fit in and go with anything. Baggy cardigans are a no-no. But festive cardigans, snowflakes, reindeer, etc, are cool all year round, in my opinion. Zip-up cardigans are a little naff -- best to stick with good old buttons."

There is no debating that up there with sandals worn with socks, a baggy cardigan is a dump-able offence -- especially if worn on a first date, which, half the men surveyed by Asda, aged between 18-35, claimed to have done. As if meeting women wasn't difficult enough without jeopardising your chances of a first good impression by tuning up in this geeky piece.

Uda accepts that cardigans are a tricky look to carry off successfully.

"Cardigans are risky. There is no right or wrong way to wear them. If it makes you look awkward, don't do it. You have to feel comfortable in a cardigan, and if you do, you'll look comfortable."

- Roxanne Parker