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Lords and ladies, of the realm gathered for Gerald's deliciously decadent 50th

Louis XVI's court was a fitting theme for this heady affair, writes Barry Egan

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Sunday Oct 28 2007

IT was scarcely an ordinary 'do' on a Saturday night in Ireland. And the invitation, a scroll with fine gold lettering, made that abundantly clear.

"Lords and Ladies, Nobility of the Realm," it began with fitting grandiosity, "the honour of thy presence is hereby requested at the 50th Birthday Party of Dr Gerald Ronan Kean to be enjoyed at the Ritz Carlton Powerscourt, Enniskerry, County Wicklow."

Nor was this to be a common or garden black tie affair. The dress code for the evening -- which would be strictly enforced -- was full costume from the aristocratic courts of 18th Century France.

And, needless to say, when the regal proceedings began at 7pm last night in the Ritz Carlton, the birthday boy himself, Mr Kean, stepped into the waiting assembly dressed in black and gold brocade as King Louis XVI.

To his right, Gerald's girlfriend -- and Michael Flatley's former fiancee -- Lisa Murphy came as Marie Antoinette, complete with diamond jewels of the era. She was serenely self-possessed in the midst of the hurly-burly of 300 well wishers milling about in full 18th century regalia. Smiling coquettishly, Lisa didn't look like a lady who was going to get her head cut off.

"I am wearing a dress that was specially made by Sands in London," Lisa told me. "They actually made the costumes for the movie Marie Antoinette. I am going to change into another dress, that I bought in America, halfway through the evening. It is blue and gold."

I remark that the vertigo-inducing shoes she is wearing are hardly reminiscent of the 18th century.

"I know!" she said with a laugh. "I don't like the shoes of that period. They weren't high enough. I'm in Roberto Cavilli gold shoes -- to match the dress."

TV3's Lorraine Keane wore a purple and gold dress designed and made by her friend Synan O'Mahony in Italian lace and brocade. She cooed that Peter Mark's Gary Kavanagh created a coiffure masterpiece.

All the guests were announced officially upon arrival, as in, "Lord and Lady Ahern" or "Lord and Lady Keating". Also "Lord and Lady Moya Brennan" (of Clannad, with her husband Tim Jarvis) were expected, as was "Lord and Lady Martin King" and "Lord and Lady Fiachna O'Braonain".

Flame throwers lit up the grey October sky. Musicians on the lawn played baroque music all the way along the path. Horse-drawn carriages brought guests -- Ronan Keating and wife Yvonne, Cecilia Ahern with partner David Keoghan, Lorraine Keane and husband Peter Devlin among them -- from a the main gate of the hotel to the private garden off the ballroom. Marian Finucane and hubbie John Clarke also turned up in the full aristocratic regalia.

It was in this grand hall where, dressed in period style, 300 of the great and the good -- and moi -- would disport themselves over the finest food and wines for the evening.

A large ice sculpture with the initials G and K on it stood inside the ballroom. A naked man sprayed in gold and covered in fruit lay artistically as a living sculpture. And no, he wasn't a stag party refugee from Temple Bar.

At 8pm, the small army of guests sat down for a five-course meal: a course for every decade the host has been alive.

It was like that scene in Neil Jordan's Freudian fairytale Company Of Wolves when the beasts enter the tent where the rich are literally stuffing themselves with venison and cakes. Starters included duck confit cannelloni, semi-dried tomatoes, foie gras jus.

There was butternut squash soup or Dublin Bay Shrimp soup. And an intermezzo of grey goose lemon sorbet. For main course, there was a choice of roasted Irish beef tenderloin with Irish potato gratin, crispy onions and natural jus; or roasted cod with champ potatoes, roasted yellow tomatoes and clam jus. The desert was molten chocolate fondant, white chocolate croguant, vanilla ice cream. All this was washed down with gallons of Leoville Barton, St Julien 2004 and Sauvignon.

Bob Hope used to joke that you knew you were getting old when the candles cost more than the birthday cake. Last night's birthday beano must have cost King Kean a princely sum.

"You only turn 50 once," he laughed, refusing to discuss anything as vulgar as money. "I came up with the idea for the party about three months ago. I have to say, the Ritz Carlton Powerscourt couldn't have done more to make this great night a success."

At the stroke of 9pm, the 300 guests were given the opportunity to dance off some of the 4,000 calories they had consumed when Ronan Keating took to the stage. Marty Whelan, in the role of something of a loose emcee for the evening, announced him.

Lloyd Cole performed at 10pm, followed by Aslan at 11pm, Belinda Carlise at midnight and ABC at 1am. "I'm thrilled that tonight has been such a success," said Gerald. "And I would give a huge and heartfelt thank you to Clodagh for everything," Gerald said graciously. "And for giving me the best gift in life: our daughter Kirsten (who turned 11 last July). I would also like to thank friends for their superb loyalty and support over the years to myself and Clodagh at times when we needed it the most."

Intriguingly, last night, Gerald's estranged wife Clodagh Hopkins was at the Nobu Ball at the Four Seasons in Dublin 4 with Norma Smurfit, Jim Corr, Niall Quinn, Michael Smurfit junior, Johnny Ronan (who owns the Ritz Carlton Powerscourt), Gerry and Morah Ryan (Gerry was the MC), Bill Cullen and Jackie Lavin, Andrea Roche and Glenda Gilson.

"I would like to thank Lisa for organising the party," Gerald added.

What did Lisa get you for your birthday, Gerald?

"I haven't got it yet," the gregarious solicitor smiled, before laughing uproariously. "She's giving it to me tonight!"

Later, on the dance floor, Lady Lisa -- divested of her regal jewels lest she take someone's eye out, as she bopped to Aslan -- seemed to contradict King Kean's story: "I got him a diamond encrusted cross and several other presents that I won't go into," she winked. "He got totally spoiled."

Plus ca change.