Table talk: Blooming delicious
There's a rather good-looking chef in town who's caught the eye of Lucinda O'Sullivan. And he's just opened a new brassierie, which she found an unmitigated delight
If chef Pol O hEannraich ever decides to give up on cheffing, the movies may well await him as this guy makes Brad Pitt look bland! He reminds me of a young Marco Pierre White, dark curls and all, but, as far as we could see on our visit, sans any of Marco's famous tantrums! Pol was a former head chef at Olivier Meisonnave's excellent Dax Restaurant on Upper Pembroke Street, Dublin 4, and, following a year abroad, he has returned to Dublin to set up his own restaurant, Bloom Brasserie, with business partner Helen Kennedy, in a basement premises on Upper Baggot Street, Dublin 4.
This location has had a couple of previous restaurant incarnations, but I had never been in it before. They have done a superb job in creating a really sleek urban space, with stone walls, dark wood, a bar area, and modern paintings. They also have an outside area for drinks, or, indeed, to dine al fresco. We were greeted by a very charming girl who certainly knew her stuff when it came to food and wine, and she brought us outside, where we kicked off with the house cocktail for me -- Vouvray mousseaux nipped with Frangelico, which added an irresistible hint of hazelnut (€8.95) -- and a glass of Charpentier Reserve Champagne (€10) for Rena.
We really liked what Bloom had to offer: a simple, concise menu with good, well thought-out ingredients. Six starters ranged from €6 to €15. Carpaccio of Irish Black Angus beef was served with rocket and capers, while Cashel Blue cheese came with rocket, pear and walnuts, in a light honey and citrus dressing. Whole gambas were sauteed in lemon, garlic and herbs, while a special of caramelised king scallops could be had as a starter, or as a main course. I had sauteed 'Grade A' foie gras (€15) which was grade A in every respect. A perfectly cooked silky piece of seared foie gras rested on featherlight country toast, and was supported by a flash of the finest apple puree, natural jus, and some perfectly anointed leaves to cut through the richness of the foie gras. Rena's choice of the carpaccio of Irish Black Angus beef (€9) set off with capers was also simple, but absolutely superb.
A half-dozen mains, €18-€31, included the classic French dish of ray wing with brown butter and capers, served with a champ puree. Whole roast sea bass comes with a tomato salad and potatoes, while a free-range chicken supreme is presented with gratin Dauphinoise, green beans, and a thyme jus. Rena opted for a magret of duck (€25), which was cooked pink, sliced and served with a delicious carrot and butternut squash puree, and baby potatoes roasted in duck fat. It was absolutely delicious. My choice of fillet of Irish Black Angus beef (€31) was also superb. It proved a very large fillet indeed, perfectly seared, served medium rare, with a delicious hazelnut and celeriac puree, and a heavenly port jus.
Puddings were €7, with a selection of mature cheeses available at €3 a piece. Rena had a red-berry plate -- a large tian of strawberry slices with raspberries and vanilla ice-cream to the side, while I had a sinful, but perfect, chocolate fondant.
There are 60 wines available by the bottle and carafe. We had a small 250ml pichet each of a very nice Bordeaux Chateau le Puy Pauillac 2001 (€12) and Argentinean Bodega Lurton Reserva Malbec 2007 (€11).
Our bill, with optional service, came to €149.95, but it is worth bearing in mind that we had the full monty in order to try everything, most people -- including ourselves when not reviewing -- would just have two courses. Open for lunch from Monday to Friday, Bloom has a very good-value, three-course lunch special at €14. There is also a short a la carte selection with mains around the €11-€14 mark.
The food was faultless, the place is lovely. I think it will make its mark -- it deserves to -- it has that certain touch of class.
L
Bloom Brasserie,
11 Upper Baggot Street,
Dublin 4.
Tel: (01) 668-7170
www.lucindaosullivan.com
- Lucinda O'Sullivan
