Savour the style
Sunday May 10 2009
We all have those rose-tinted memories of long, lazy days at the beach when there never seemed to be any rain. The Foxford rug and the picnic were packed into the boot of the car; the kids went crab hunting in the rock pools; Daddy with his trouser legs rolled up; the house or caravan taken for the month by the sea.
Each of us has our own childhood seaside memories -- for me, and many other Dubliners, they were of Skerries, the Bull Wall and Bray. Others will think fondly of hazy days in Brittas Bay, Rosslare, Garryvoe, Kilkee, Lahinch, Dooks, or perhaps Ballyconneely, Errislannan or Dingle.
In this year when nothing is as fashionable as the Irish seaside, let me take you on a whistlestop tour of some of the coastal restaurants in our favourite holiday stamping grounds around the country.
SEAFOOD SUBLIME
RedBank House
This Skerries restaurant epitomises the best of Irish seafood, which is landed daily by the local fishing boats and prepared by the genial chef patron, Terry McCoy. In a solid old bank house, you will see gorgeous French and Irish dishes you thought were lost: Dublin Bay prawns 'Napoleon' with brandy and cream; ragout of lobster, or Lambay Island scallops. Plenty for the carnivores, too. Lavish table d'hote menu at €50, or dine and overnight with breakfast at €99pps. Great four-course value menu also at €25.
RedBank House and Restaurant,
5-7 Church St,
Tel: (01) 849-1005
www.redbank.ie
Ivan's Oyster Bar and Grill
This one hit the pier in Howth firing on all cylinders. Ivan Beshoff was the Russian grandfather of proprietor Alan, who is one of the Dublin Beshoff fishmongering family. The decor is slick and sophisticated with big French doors opening out to the front in summer. From bouillabaisse to lobster Nicoise to shellfish platters, there is also a wet counter and market section, so do bring some home. Dress to kill. Great early-bird four-course menu for two with bottle of wine, €70, 5.30-7pm.
Ivan's Oyster Bar and Grill,
17-18 West Pier,
Howth,
Co Dublin.
Tel: (01) 839-0285
www.ivans.ie
Caviston's
Affectionately known as the Mayor of Glasthule, Peter Caviston runs this popular eatery for fishophiles, situated next to the eponymous fish shop and delicatessen, with aplomb and a sense of fun. Now open on Friday and Saturday nights. Visit nearby Joyce's Tower and the famous Forty Foot.
Caviston's Seafood Restaurant,
58-59 Glasthule Rd,
Sandycove,
Co Dublin.
Tel: (01) 280-9120
www.cavistons.com
castle murray house
Fabulous views out over the Atlantic and McSwyne's Castle are just part of the attraction of Castle Murray House. Fantastic seafood, landed daily by local fishermen, is prepared with French expertise by chef Remy Dupuy. I've mentioned Castle Murray for years in my Little Black Book of Great Places to Stay and Eat and now it's featuring in RTE's TV programme Fresh from the Sea.
St John's Point,
Dunkineely,
Tel: (074) 973-7022
www.castlemurray.com
fishy fishy cafe
Martin and Marie Shanahan's Fishy Fishy is one of the most stupendous restaurants in Ireland. A beautiful, cool, modern restaurant with an al fresco dining area to the front for long Kinsale summer days. Consistently reliable and good value. See the great and good of Cork queue for a precious table at weekends.
Fishy Fishy Cafe,
Crowley Quay,
Tel: (021) 470-0415
www.fishyfishy.ie
great BEACHES
seashell
Right on the magnificent Rossnowlagh Beach stands one of Ireland's great holiday hotels. The Seashell Restaurant is perfect for a lavish dinner after a hard day on the beach.
Seashell Restaurant,
Sandhouse Hotel and Marine Spa,
Rossnowlagh,
Co Donegal.
Tel: (071) 985-1777
www.sandhouse-hotel.ie
the long room
There is nowhere quite like Co Clare, nor is there anywhere like The Lodge at Doonbeg. It is a golfer's dream. Tee off on the Greg Norman-designed course, which spans 1.5 miles of crescent-shaped beach and century-old sand dunes that face the Atlantic ocean.
Follow that with dinner in the spectacular Long Room Restaurant designed by Irish-American designer Clodagh O'Kennedy.
The Long Room,
The Lodge at Doonbeg,
Doonbeg,
Co Clare.
Tel: (065) 905-5600
www.doonbeggolfclub.com
the lighthouse Bar and grill
Long, innocent days on the beach, fun through the rough grass with Fido, beach ball, rounders and windbreakers. A perfect day, finished off with delicious wholesome bar food at The Lighthouse. Fond memories.
Cracking fresh fish and steaks to die for, plus Bill Casey's Shanagarry smoked salmon with capers and dill cream cheese. Massive plaice simply sauteed or lightly coated -- plus great prawns. The under 12s' menu features freshly cooked food.
The Lighthouse Bar and Grill,
Ballycotton Bay,
Castlemartyr
Co Cork.
Tel: (021) 464-6718
www.garryvoehotel.com
la marine
There is almost a feel of the Cote d'Azur about Bill Kelly's La Marine Bistro, but then I suppose that's the idea. Think of those delicious Kilmore Quay scallops with creamy spiced Puy lentils and coconut creme fraiche matched with crisp wines they import directly from France.
La Marine,
Kelly's Resort Hotel,
Rosslare Strand,
Tel: (053) 913-2114
www.kellys.ie
Whitehorses
In the sweet little upmarket seaside village of Ardmore lies one of the country's best kept foodie secrets.
Run by three sisters, Christine Power and Geraldine and Angela Flavin, it features the most delicious, succulent food in a wonderful, friendly atmosphere. Sole on the bone, prawns, roast duck, and, as for the gratin potatoes -- to die for. The most scrumptious desserts in Ireland. Perfect, too, for lunch, afternoon tea or dinner.
Whitehorses Restaurant,
Main Street,
Ardmore,
Tel: (024) 94040
wallet-friendly
aldridge lodge RESTAURANT
I came across Billy Whitty and Joanne Harding's sweet Aldridge Lodge on the road to Hook Head, three years ago, and I told you all about it, with a huge response. It has since won Best Leinster Restaurant in the Food & Wine Awards and has a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Their fish comes from Billy's sister's fish shop; their lobster and crab from Billy's father, a fisherman in Duncannon. They have three rooms for overnighting.
Aldridge Lodge Restaurant and Guesthouse,
Duncannon,
Co Wexford.
Tel: (051) 389-116
www.aldridgelodge.com
The Bay tree
Conor Wood , having trained with Belfast's Michelin-starred chef Michael Deane, went on to open a chic restaurant with rooms on the Cooley Peninsula, and it's a gem. Lots of seafood, plus braised local lamb shank with rosemary sauce or try the foie gras pate with rhubarb and black-pepper preserve. Good value.
The Bay Tree,
Newry St,
Tel: (042) 938-3848
www.belvederehouse.ie
NAUTILUS
You couldn't get much simpler and more tasty than the food in this dinky little pub by Ballycotton pier. If you like something a bit different and quirky, this is your mark. Choose from a selection of pate, terrines and rillettes, and Savoyarde cheese fondue.
Nautilus,
The Inn by the Harbour,
Silver Strand,
Ballycotton,
Co Cork.
Tel: (087) 613-5897
Beshoff's
Join the multicultural queue at Beshoff's chipper for great fish and chips. Everything is nicely presented in boxes complete with all the sauces -- no newspaper wrapping here. Scampi 'n' chips, €8.95. Haddock 'n' chips, €6.95. Family special for four: two adult portions and two fish bites or chicken goujons for kids and four drinks, €19.95.
12 Harbour Rd,
Howth,
Co Dublin.
Tel: (01) 832-1754
real gourmet burger
One of Dublin's first specialist places to do gourmet burgers, it's on the Dun Laoghaire seafront. Great toppings and sides, such as the melted St Kevin brie with chargrilled bacon topped with homemade mango and ginger relish.
Real Gourmet Burger,
The Pavilion,
Dun Laoghaire,
Co Dublin.
Tel: (01) 284-6568
www.realgourmetburger.ie
SNAP THAT VIEW
cruzzo
On the Malahide Marina overlooking the yachts, Cruzzo attracts the fun, glamorous crowd. The ground floor has a piano bar where you can shake a leg, while the upstairs restaurant is always buzzy and the scene of many special events. Plenty of bling. Modern Irish food. Enquire about their Sea Safaris.
Cruzzo Restaurant,
Marina Village,
Malahide,
Co Dublin.
Tel: (01) 845-0599
www.cruzzo.ie
the wateRfronT
This relaxed, Franco-Irish family-run spot at Baltimore is owned by Youen Jnr and Kate Jacob, and comprises three restaurants, a bar and rooms.
The Lookout Restaurant is a stunning new first-floor addition offering glorious views out over Baltimore Bay and the islands from its 25ft panoramic window. La Jolie Brise downstairs does pizzas and casual food.
Just a few doors away, Youen senior's classic Chez Youen is still going strong.
The Waterfront,
The Square,
Baltimore,
West Cork.
Tel: (028) 20600
www.youenjacob.com
inis meain restaurant
Ruari and Marie-Therese de Blacam have opened this uber-cool restaurant in the Aran Islands. It may be 15 miles out into the Atlantic Ocean, but this is something you'll really be able to boast about.
Delicious food served simply and with style. Book your passage for crayfish and lobster with chervil garlic butter.
Inis Meain Restaurant and Suites,
Inis Meain,
Aran Islands.
Tel: (086) 826-6026
www.inismeain.com
House RESTAURANT
The hotel is built into the cliffside with nothing but the crystal-blue sea of Ardmore Bay in front.
Chef Martijn Kajuiter has been wowing diners with his artistic palettes on plates in the hip hotel's formal House Restaurant. A three-course dinner is €62.50.
House Restaurant,
Ardmore,
Co Waterford.
Tel: (024) 87800
www.thecliffhousehotel.com
barrtra
Barrtra means beside the beach and describes perfectly the location of this sweet little restaurant, which is just outside Lahinch and overlooking Liscannor Bay, in Co Clare.
There's lots of local seafood and a pleasant away-from-it-all atmosphere.
Barrtra Seafood Restaurant,
Lahinch,
Co Clare.
Tel: (065) 708-1280
www.barrtra.com
SAVOUR THE STYLE
seaview house
Savour the intimate atmosphere in the delightful nooks and crannies of the main dining room, or dine in the beautiful new formal conservatory restaurant which overlooks the gorgeous gardens. Kathleen O'Sullivan's Seaview House Hotel is legendary for its food, elegance and charm. A petit chateau in the heart of West Cork.
Seaview House Hotel,
Ballylickey,
Bantry,
Co Cork.
Tel: (027) 50073
www.seaviewhousehotel.com
o'Callaghan-Walshe
Sean Kearney's unique seafood restaurant in an equally unique square in West Cork is a real gem. You won't find any bleached floors or hip decor here, but this place has the type of style money can't buy -- plus a maestro who is a hard act to follow.
They do fabulous fish -- make sure to try Roxanne's scampi.
O'Callaghan-Walshe,
The Square,
Rosscarbery,
Co Cork.
Tel: (023) 48125
www.ocallaghanwalshe.com
global village restaurant
The strange name and modest exterior belie the excellence of the food on offer in Martin Bealin and Nuala Cassidy's fantastic restaurant.
Superb seafood landed from the local fishing boats is served with confidence and style. This place is full of buzzy activity. Book your pew.
Global Village Restaurant,
Upper Main St,
Tel: (066) 915-2325
www.globalvillagedingle.com
the tannery
Paul Flynn took a leap of faith when opening in the old tannery building in the Gold Coast town of Dungarvan 12 years ago, but by now he has the whole of the south-east eating out of his hand.
The new cookery school has a chef's table seating 18 people: perfect for special occasions, your own private dinner party at €55 per head. Signature dishes include crab creme brulee, pickled cucumber, and Melba toast. The Tannery is a smart see and be seen place, so a bit of respect and a bit of bling, too please!
The Tannery Restaurant,
10 Quay St,
Dungarvan,
Co Waterford.
Tel: (058) 45420
www.tannery.ie
The Three Qs
Greystones, the former genteel seaside village, has opened up and is fast becoming a hip haunt -- the Southside's answer to Malahide. Don't expect a song and dance act: The Three Qs are not three tenors but the three Quinn chefs, three brothers who have been running a very popular, eclectic eatery since 2006. The manu ranges from saddle of rabbit to oven-roasted sea bream.
The Three Qs,
Church Rd,
Greystones,
Tel: (01) 287-5477
L
- Lucinda O'Sullivan
