sangiovese secrets
Italy's most planted grape is full of cheek and charm, but it can be tricky to identify a bottle. You'll know it best as Chianti, but it is also the mainstay of Rosso Piceno and Rosso Conero -- which are far more pocket-friendly options
Saturday November 21 2009
It is Italy's most planted grape variety, but it may be easier to identify a bottle of Sangiovese in Australia, California or even Argentina. It's those European wine-making laws again, that traditionally give pride of place on the label to the terroir rather than the name on the grape.
But, make no mistake, the character of Sangiovese bursts through, full of Italian cheek and charm, a bitter-sweet cherry tang sprinkled with herbs, and all the other ingredients, such as biting acidity and tannins, that make for good wine.
You will know it best as Chianti from the heart of Tuscany. Unfortunately, there can be thin and raspy Chiantis, although better attention to detail is upping the quality all around.
To make up for any shortcomings other grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, may be blended into Chianti adding flesh, depth or structure.
If Chianti is produced in Italy's Tuscan thigh, Sangiovese is also the mainstay of Rosso Piceno and Rosso Conero, pocket-friendly drinkers from the Marches region, behind the knee.
Oh that it were that simple, but even in Tuscany, Sangiovese and its clones require a pocket dictionary. It is the muscular Morellino (of di Scansano fame); as Prugnolo Gentile is the basis of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the lesser Rosso di Montepulciano, and, in what is regarded as its most aristocratic form, it is Brunello (di Montalcino). There's a junior, Rosso di Montalcino.
The grape has travelled with the Italian diaspora, which is why it was in Australia I ordered simple Sangiovese with a lunch of Parma ham, figs and gorgonzola. Sangiovese is good with just about anything Italian.
email: weekendwine@independent.ie
- Katherine Donnelly
Irish Independent
