Restaurant Reviewer: Diep-Le Shaker
55 Pembroke Lane
Dublin 2
Tel: 01 6611829
The end is nigh. This is the Last Hurrah. The economy is in the toilet; consumer confidence is at an all time low; we're pariahs in the EU following the Liz Bonnin treaty debacle; and embarrassing new licensing laws are about to annihilate any lingering remnants of a party atmosphere in this country.
The experts are everywhere advising us how to build a metaphorical nuclear bunker to, firstLY, survive the initial blast from the R-(as in recession) bomb, and, secondly, live with the toxic economic fallout for the next few (?) lean, eat-at-home years.
However, despite, or more likely because of, that pervasive sense of foreboding, Irish people are partying harder than ever before. Trust us to find a way to put the 'session' into 'recession'.
Perhaps it's just the shower of sozzled lushes I fraternise with, but there's a definite sense we're all trying to cram in every last minute of fun, and indulge every luxurious whim we can, before we head for high ground and await the apocalypse.
It was in that Weimar 'we're all fecked so let's party down at the Kit Kat Club' spirit of abandon that I broke open my Henry the Hippo piggy bank, ordered my housemate G to put down his bowl of stewed newspaper, and invited him to come dine with me at Diep-Le Shaker, renowned purveyors of "royal Thai cuisine".
I had been told over the phone when booking that I had my table between 6-8pm, which turned out to be plenty of time for us to take in the Diep experience. It's a stylish two-storey restaurant composed of mahogany floors and tables, red cushioned chairs, and creamy white walls -- simple but classy (like myself, some might say).
Having spotted the lush Buddha Bar on the way in, we decided firstly to concentrate on booze. A friend had told us in advance to sample Diep's cocktails, which are the purview of its award-winning head bartender Colin Hutton. There's a huge selection at quite reasonable prices (e9-e14), but I plumped for the Raspberry Watkins (rich in flavour, refreshing, plus I got one of my five-a-day), while G chose the vanilla and ginger ale-tinged Spiced Swizzle.
The wine list at Diep is immense, ranging in price from e23 to e240, but it's helpfully broken down, and also includes a handy by-the-glass menu that varies in cost between e5.50 and e14. G ordered a tumbler of Fishcage Shiraz, which was delectably spicy and the perfect temperature, while I opted for the Caves De La Tourangelle, a crisp and fruity white that went down a treat.
Our waiter was friendly, informative and unobtrusively attentive from the get-go, and the atmosphere remained pleasant and relaxed even when things picked up later on. For starters, I got the nicely presented Tempura Goong (e10.50), comprising of prawns in golden batter that were the softest and tastiest I think I've ever had. The accompanying sweet chilli sauce was divine.
G had the Tom Kha Gai (e8), a lip-smacking creamy coconut soup with chicken, lemongrass, lime and galangal that both of us devoured. Diep was definitely off to a good start for both of us.
Our mains arrived some 10-15 minutes after the appetisers, and they were just the right size. I ordered the Gaeng Pet red curry (e21) with a portion of fluffy brown jasmine rice (e5). The dish came with a three-chilli heat warning, which I was completely comfortable with, but it turned out to be milder than expected. However, the rich, creamy curry sauce was too delicious for me to care, nicely complemented with chicken, coconut, bamboo shoots, chilli, aubergine and sweet basil.
G's chilli and garlic duck stir fry (e25) with sticky steamed rice (e3.95) was a lot hotter, but all the better for it. The duck was sweet and crispy, though the plum and soy sauce was a little sparse. Otherwise, this was a fantastic dish with plenty of chillies that left G sweating at the brow -- definitely one for the hard-core Thai fan.
We were stuffed after all of that, but for your edification dear reader, I sampled a supremely tasty ice cream selection for dessert (I just couldn't possibly fit in the intriguing chocolate and chilli brownie), along with a pot of tea.
Diep is not a cheap night out, but it's difficult to fault the place: the high quality is evident in everything from the fresh ingredients in the cocktails to the professional service from the staff. The end might be nigh, but for a debt man walking like myself, this was a heck of a last meal. Hurrah! n
Aingeala Flannery is on holiday
The low down
> Typical Dish: Wok-fried tiger prawns with chilli, peppers and spring onion
> Recommended: Red curry
> The Damage: e113.70 (minus tip) for two cocktails, two glasses of wine, starters, mains, one dessert and pot of tea
> At the table: Sophisticated gal pals on a night out; work colleagues
> On the radio: Contemporary jazz
> What to wear: Smart casual
> Do say: I will look at the cocktail menu
> Don't say: Can I wash dishes in lieu of paying?
- Declan Cashin
