Farewell feast does chef proud
Jim Aherne was on the other side of the stove at a dinner in his honour in Kelly's Resort Hotel, writes Lucinda O'Sullivan
Sunday November 29 2009
HE MAY not perhaps be an everyday familiar face on your TV screens, as a celebrity chef would be, but Jim Aherne has been one of the most widely known and respected chefs in the food industry in Ireland. A native of east Cork, where his 101-year-old mother still lives, Chef Aherne retired last week after 35 years in one of the best-known and loved hotels in Ireland, Kelly's Resort Hotel at Rosslare Strand.
A classically trained chef, Jim Aherne has cooked for more than two million guests throughout his reign in Kelly's. Almost a walking food encyclopaedia, highly qualified Jim honed his skills in Germany and Switzerland before becoming executive chef in Rosslare. But Jim was always seeking new ideas to bring to diners at Kelly's by spending time during the winter closure in some of France's top restaurants such as Chez Pic in Valence, Roger Verge's Le Moulin de Mougins in Cannes, and Bernard Loiseau's in Saulieu. He has also been a tremendous guiding influence on young people coming into the industry over the years.
Chef Aherne is a larger-than-life personality, oozing wit and wisdom, which was all to the fore last Sunday night at a 'Dinner Celebration' hosted for him by Bill and Isabelle Kelly in the hotel's French Bistro, La Marine.
The menu, prepared by La Marine's superb chef Eugene Callaghan, who will be stepping into Jim's shoes, was "a look to the past and the future".
We kicked off with the eponymously named Jim's Terrine of Foie Gras with a Jurancon jelly and truffled leaves accompanied by Macon Clesse 'Domaine de la Bongran' 1998 (Magnum) Jean Thevenet. This was followed by Baked Baby Pumpkin with Kilmore Quay Scallops and Vougeot 'Le Clos Blanc' Monopole 1er Cru 2006 Domaine de la Vougeraie. The main course was ethereally delicate pink Roast Loin of Veal with Cep Gratin, accompanied by Gevrey-Chambertin 'Mes Cinq Terroirs' 2005 Denis Mortet.
An Irish cheese plate was paired with a very special Chateauneuf-du-Pape 'Clos des Papes' 2005 Paul Avril. This absolutely delicious wine had a special significance as it was produced by Isabelle Kelly's father, the distinguished wine producer Paul Avril, at the family's Clos des Papes Estate in Southern Rhone. He died in June of this year but had the joy of seeing his 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape named 'Wine of the Year 2007' by Wine Spectator and travelling en famille to New York to receive the accolade.
We finished in very grand style with a stunning feather light White Chocolate and Raspberry Parfait paired with a Chateau d'Yquem 1996 Cru Class Sauternes.
Jim Aherne may have more time now for his beloved fishing, but I have no doubt too that he will still keep an eye on the stove.
Sunday Independent
