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Food & Drink

Deal of the week - Bentleys

Bentley's Oyster Bar and Grill

Bentley's Oyster Bar and Grill

By Sinead Van Kampen

Wednesday March 03 2010

If the grand entrance to the elegant georgian pile that is Bentley's Oyster Bar and Grill doesn't impress you, then the pre-theatre menu certainly will. Changing daily and depending on suppliers and quality of produce the menu is as inventive and inviting as perhaps you'd expect given it's Michelin starred patron. Whether you buy into those labels or not the food certainly won't disappoint.

For starters I chose the salmon ravioli which arrived to the table in a foamy, bubbly broth and was both sweet with spinach and a boat fresh salmon fillet. My dining companion opted for a compact shellfish risotto to start which came packed with juicy mussels and herbs.The house chardonnay complemented both the starters and was a reasonable €6.50 per glass.

I was more than impressed with the hake fillet that I chose for mains. Served with a simple saffron broth and wonderfull broccoli and champ the firm hake just flaked to the fork and with the vegetables gave taste to spare. On the other side of the table my companion truly enjoyed the herb crusted lamb. Quite dark, rich, and perfectly tender the dish came with anchovy and a sumptuous black olive dressing. On the wine front the house merlot was very well received but diners in search of a real treat will love the Stellekaya - a solid new-world red at €12.20 a glass.

Desserts we're recommend by our maitre-d. Crepes Suzette being glace rather than sugar sweet and packed with a sharp orange zest. My companion chose the Rum baba which was served with Creme Chantilly and was also thoroughly enjoyable. Throughout proceedings dessert was never really in danger of being anything other than enjoyed to the last spoonful.

All in all Bentley's seems to be simplicity writ large. As a set menu this raises the bar in every sense. Given everyone these days seems to claim simplicity as the hallmark of their food, few are calm enough to actually keep to the bargain. Bentley's does the balance so well.

Nothing felt out of place and given the price and the quality I've discovered the pre-theatre menu is a real pleasure - especially the olive focaccia bread.

The Bentley's lunch/ pre-theatre menu is priced at €24.50 for three courses and is served Tuesday to Saturday from 12:00 - 2:30pm and weekday evenings from 5.30pm to 6.15pm. The menu is also available for Sunday lunch from 12pm to 3pm. To book phone Bentley's Oyster Bar and Grill on 01 638 3939.

- Sinead Van Kampen

 
 

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