Thursday, March 18 2010

Food & Drink

Bringing all the drinking back home

We're abandoning the pub in our droves, writes Alison O'Riordan

Sunday September 23 2007

The good news is that we have not totally changed character. Yes, our drinking patterns are changing, but we are not giving up the beer for lattes and smoothies and going all metrosexual.

Our only concession to globalisation in this regard is that our drinking is becoming location indifferent.

To put it another way, we are abandoning the pub in our droves.

The pub may still be the safest place to drink in a responsible manner, but at-home drinking is growing faster than drinking in pubs, cafes, clubs and restaurants.

The word on the street is that off-trade is set to overtake the pub trade.

This has been shown up sharply in the current World Cup fever. Brent Pope may have found a few grumbling Irish fans still rooted to their stools in Kiely's of Donnybrook, but everyone I know chose to watch the boys in green take on the might of Namibia and Georgia at home, carrying on the party until the early hours.

Of course we pick a different house for each game, and it is quite a buzz. Once you have contributed to the kitty -- and it's a lot less than you would part with buying rounds in a pub -- no money changes hands.

No waiting for service, no snooty barman to glare at you if you laugh too loud. And for those who smoke, you can.

Best of all, no chucking out time. None of that city centre messing, worrying will the car be safe where you left it now that you've had more than you promised yourself you would; no trekking around in the cold and the rain looking for a nightclub with a compulsory queue to give the impression it's a kicking spot, or the doorman doesn't fancy the cut of your gib; no looking in vain for a taxi, no being wary about leery-looking characters weaving towards you. (Actually you can still encounter some of that, but at least you know who they are).

This change in drinking, which began in Ireland in 2006, is commonly described as 'cocooning' -- the desire among consumers to do the bulk of their socialising in the comfort of their own homes. Longer working hours and busier lifestyles have left Irish people with less time for socialising in bars.

Zoe Byrne has recently bought a house in Rathfarnham and enjoys drinking regularly in her new pad.

She said: "I have spent so much money and effort in buying my new house that I feel compelled to spend more time at home even when it comes to socialising.

"Drinking at home is a good way to kick start your night and plan for the night ahead as everyone is in the one place. Otherwise it can be a nightmare. Ireland's drinking habits are really changing; alcohol is now bought for consumption at home instead of a trip to the local. Why not make use of the house you have splashed so much money out on and enjoy a glass of wine in front of the telly instead?"

The low cost of alcohol sold in supermarkets and off-licences has also led to a culture of drinking in the home. Off-licences have got a boost from our more frugal attitude to drink and now sell €1.35bn worth of the alcohol consumed in Ireland.

Richard Barry is Spokesperson for the National Off-Licence Association, which represents in excess of 330 independent specialist off licences around Ireland.

He said: "I think there has been a natural move over the last ten years from drinking in pubs to drinking at home.

"Certainly watching sporting events at home has become very popular over the last decade.

"This is due probably to a number of different reasons, such as the distance of satellite towns or suburbs to city centres, the cost of houses, the vast improvements in home entertaining, such as home cinemas, and the popularity of barbecues. I think the decision to drink at home or in a pub are two very different thought processes, of which the cost is just one of the deciding factors."

Holly Jacobs from Raheny is another avid follower of the new 'cocoon' trend, she said: "I think Ireland is fast losing its pub culture. I can see why people drink at home, it is a more cost-effective way. But in reality, we are doing more harm to ourselves because in general, you will be more intoxicated compared to drinking in the pub as the drinks are measured. It's very dangerous because people are pouring their own spirit measures and drinking more than they can handle. They pour alcohol like lemonade into a cup.

"As a smoker, drinking at home gives me the freedom to smoke and leaves us women to enjoy the experience of social bonding with friends, but in an environment where they can relax and not worry about safety."

Grainne Macken of Corporate Communications in Diageo says: "There has definitely been a huge shift in alcohol consumption at home. In 1997 70 per cent of alcohol was consumed in the pub and 30 per cent from off-licences. Ten years later, in 2007, it is even, 50 per cent is on-trade and 50 per cent is off-trade. This shift represents the huge amount of people enjoying alcohol at home. Also, 10 years ago beer made up 70 per cent of the market but has now fallen to 50 per cent and wine is dominating 20 per cent of the market. There is nowhere nicer to enjoy a nice bottle of wine than in the confines of one's home."

Declan Farmer of Corporate Affairs Manager from Heineken Ireland, who are the official sponsors of the Rugby World Cup 2007 is in agreement with Grainne Macken. He said: "There are many factors behind the recent increase in home consumption and increases in off-trade sales, such as the smoking ban and random breath-testing.

"These have certainly promoted the home-consumption trend and, when combined with a society where many consumers are value conscious and time poor, it all has its effect on consumer behaviour and consumption in our society."

James Jones from Terenure has no time for partying in the city centre and would choose a house-party any day over a night in town.

He said: "There is little debate that heading out on the town is an expensive leisure activity. When you factor in the taxi, being charged between €6 and €6.50 a pint in some places, depending on the time, and then €34 on a cheap bottle of cooking wine for those that want to stay out that little bit later on Leeson Street, you don't have much change out of a €100 for a few hours on the town. And that's a cheap night. Don't get me wrong. You don't have to go to Leeson Street to get ripped off, the other option is to pay a €10 entrance fee to a nightclub for the privilege of being overcharged at the bar. The situation is the same all over Ireland and will never change as long as the pub industry is regulated.

"We deregulated the taxis, why not deregulate the pub industry and give some choice back to the consumer?"

The poor weather throughout the summer was also a factor in encouraging topers to become stay-at-home types. Which suggests that come the winter we won't stir out at all.

I just have one nagging worry about all this home-brew bonding.

How will we meet new people?

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