Aromatics hitting the big time
Some aromatics have made it big time — Sauvignon Blanc is an aromatic. Its upfront grassy, herbaceous gooseberry character is zesty and refreshing. Riesling is getting there. The lime flavoured zippy dry Australia rieslings are bringing us round to it. But we are still not sure about the original German rieslings yet.
Viognier is an aromatic. Indeed its musky, apricot character is becoming decidedly trendy. The expensive originals hail from Condrieu, a tiny area in the Northern Rhone. Once again it is the affordable Aussie viogniers and those from California and the South of France which are tempting our palates.
The most aromatic are muscat and gewurztraminer. Find your way round these and you will have something very different which will provide a talking point at any summer party or BBQ.
Gewurztraminer is the most perfumed of the aromatics. Its damask rose, geranium leaf, lychee, red grapefruit and spice character is almost over the top. The definitive ones come from Alsace in north east France where they are dry, rich and powerful, but lowish in acidity. You need strong flavoured food to go with the pungent gewurz, gingery marinades, sweet and sour sauces, spicy Asian or fusion foods, or Canton or Peking Duck.
Although more subtle than gewurz, muscat is also pungent and perfumed. It is a chameleon of a grape capable of making dry wines right through to lusciously sweet. Dry muscats are light, delicate and taste decidedly grapey. Again Alsace produces the definitive ones, although Brown Brothers in Australia do an excellent dry version too.
Asti is made from muscat. It is one of the lightest, most floral, sweetest fizzes you can buy. Low in alcohol — just 7.5 by volume, it is a fun party wine, delightful with strawberries and raspberries (pop a couple in your glass), and with cherries.
It needs to be young and well chilled — fill the glass with frozen crushed asti cubes, then top up. Fantastic.
Sweet muscats are moreish. The darkest and sweetest are Australian — from Rutherglen, they are super concentrated (a bit like California syrup of figs without the side effects), sweet, raisiny and perfumed. The sweet muscats from southern France (Beaume de Venise, Frontigan, Rivesaltes et el) are much lighter. Called vin doux naturel, they are golden with delicate orange and grape aromas. The French drink them with foie gras, pates and the salty Roquefort ewe's milk cheese
RECOMMENDED: Torres Vina Esmeralda
A Spanish white from the Cataluna region.
Made from moscatel and gewürztraminer, two grapes at the top of the aromatic spectrum. It is exotic and fragrant with rose, honeysuckle and jasmine. The palate is light, intensely fruity with a good dollop of gewurz-traminer spice on the finish. Serve chilled as an aperitif, with spicy exotic Asian dishes. Good, too, with shellfish or fresh melon with prosciuto.
- Myra Greer
