Wednesday 26 October 2016

The icon, the pitch & the wardrobe - the people behind pop's trailblazing fashion moments

Published 20/08/2016 | 02:30

Madonna and Phillips refocus on their enduring preoccupations - sexual ambiguity, transformation and the right to self-expression - in the shoot 'Art for Freedom', photographed by Tom Munro for 'L'Uomo Vogue' (2014). Madonna © Boy Toy, Inc
Madonna and Phillips refocus on their enduring preoccupations - sexual ambiguity, transformation and the right to self-expression - in the shoot 'Art for Freedom', photographed by Tom Munro for 'L'Uomo Vogue' (2014). Madonna © Boy Toy, Inc
‘Fashion + Music’ by Katie Baron, is out now
Tailly styled the video for Beyonce's feminist anthem, 'Run the World (Girls)'
David Bowie in the now iconic 'Tokyo Pop' PVC kabuki bodysuit devised by Yamamoto. David Bowie © Masayoshi Sukita
The cover of the album ‘Nightclubbing’ (1981) was envisioned by Goude and became a seminal image in pop music history thanks to its hitherto unseen sexually charged androgyny. Grace Jones © Jean-Paul Goude
Devlin’s work with the Disney popstrel-turned-provocateur Miley Cyrus, for her Bangerz tour (2014). Miley Cyrus © Es Devlin

Music and fashion have always gone hand in fingerless glove, writes Katie Baron in 'Fashion + Music', a new book that introduces the people behind some of the music industry's most trailblazing fashion moments

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Grace Jones v Jean-Paul Goude


Perhaps nowhere in the rich historical co-mingling of music and fashion has the notion of 'becoming' been as vividly served up as by the Jamaican pop star Grace Jones. As the world's first new wave pop artist, Jones herself once attested, "I wasn't born this way. One creates oneself." But the story of Jones' creation is no solo show, for it was the irrepressible and exacting vision of Jean-Paul Goude - the legendary French art director, filmmaker and Jones' then lover - that drove her unforgettable visual legacy.

Miley Cyrus -v- Es Devlin


Straddling the worlds of opera, dance, theatre and spectacular public events (she designed the Olympics closing ceremony in London in 2012 and is devising the opening event for Rio 2016), Es Devlin OBE has become an integral brain within the stage-crafted visions of pop stars including the Pet Shop Boys, Kanye West, Lady Gaga and Miley Cyrus.

Madonna -v- Arianne Phillips


Arianne Phillips - multiple-Oscar-nominated costume designer, fashion stylist and Madonna's most enduring creative collaborator - is one of the most influential visual raconteurs in the world.

David Bowie -v- Kansai Yamamoto


Kansai Yamamoto - designer, director and one of David Bowie's linchpin early collaborators - is a creative so dynamic that, according to Victoria Broackes, head of performance and theatre exhibitions at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, "in many ways regular fashion simply cannot contain him". Since his debut in the 1970s, he has been an unparalleled magnet for those with an appetite for the extraordinary.

Beyoncé -v- Jenke-Ahmed Tailly


Queen B's former creative director, Jenke-Ahmed Tailly, has an encyclopaedic repository of literary, philosophical and cinematic references. He says his female-influenced upbringing inspired his fashion choices for Beyoncé.

"I was lucky to be in [Beyoncé's] life at the time when she was growing differently as an artist and a person; she was about to become a mother and she wanted to move that girl-power narrative forward," he says. "Our relationship was built on trust and passion, enabling me to introduce her to new designers and new horizons, and I'm sure me being from Paris with my African background had an added value in terms of my take on the world."

Lady Gaga -v- Franc Fernandez

Franc Fernandez - a self-taught fashion designer, artist, art director and stylist - designed the infamous meat dress (painstakingly crafted from real slices of meat) that Lady Gaga wore to the MTV Video Music Awards in Los Angeles in 2010.

Surreal, subversive and typically Gaga, it was a massive media sensation whose intentions divided commentators en masse: an artistic statement with a feminist agenda (women as meat) or an anti-fashion dig at the now sensation-hungry (style over content) fashion and music industry themselves? Fernandez - resourceful as ever - drafted in the family butcher to bring it to life. The designer has also worked with Scissor Sisters and Katy Perry.

Irish Independent

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