Friday 31 October 2014

We should all be sorry Dylan is no longer Minted

Published 24/04/2009 | 00:00

Dylan McGrath is one of the finest chefs ever to have worked in Dublin, and the closure of his Ranelagh restaurant, Mint, robs the city of one of the most sublime places to enjoy cutting-edge contemporary cooking.

McGrath is publically controversial and outspoken, but in a restaurant business characterised by OCD -- Obsessive Competitive Disorder -- he is a rare chef in that his professional colleagues all agree on just what a singular and gifted cook he is.

And it's not just his technical sleight of hand that impresses so much. McGrath has a rare instinct for beauty, for being able to make a plate of food into an aesthetic triumph, a small, dazzling work of art.

Appreciating that beauty costs a lot of money, however, and without a bubbly-and-brandy corporate spend, restaurants such as Mint always struggle to survive. But anyone lucky enough to have enjoyed McGrath's cooking will treasure the memory.

-- John McKenna

John McKenna is author of The Bridgestone Guides.

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