Friday 26 May 2017

Katherine Donnelly: An explosion of flavours

Katherine Donnelly

Katherine Donnelly

Someone asked me whether all that wine-writer speak about blackcurrants and such was a bit of spoof. Never! Flavour compounds are real.

Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is particularly rich in compounds that produce 'green' flavours on one hand, and passion fruit and grapefruit on the other. Which is why there are some that I love and some on which I can pass.

It can be too full-on and pungent for me, full of sugar-snap pea flavours. When it is more restrained, where the zesty citrus notes shine through and the passion fruit has a crisp edge, I'm happier.

Vive la différence. There is a Sauvignon Blanc for everyone, so pour a glass for Mum this weekend.

Take two wines

Hunky Dory Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 — crisp gooseberry and grass flavours balanced with citrus and passion fruit. 13pc alc €11.95 Available from The Parting Glass, Enniskerry; Listons, Camden Street; Claudio’s, Newtownmountkennedy; The Mill Cellar, Maynooth; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Ardkeen Food Store, Waterford; Nectar Wines, Sandyford; Kelly’s, Clontarf; TheWineshop.ie; Martin’s, Fairview; Next Door.

Greywacke Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 — an intensity of flavour, dominated by lemon pithiness, with herbs and tropical fruit. 13.5pc alc. €19.99 Available from Cellar Master, Stillorgan; Celtic Whiskey, Dawson Street; Drink Store, D7; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Mitchells, IFSC/Sandycove; www.thewineshop.ie.

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