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Saturday 20 September 2014

Inner city steak-out

Published 13/04/2014 | 00:08

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Can we no longer enjoy a steak in a restaurant without being made to feel guilty?
Can we no longer enjoy a steak in a restaurant without being made to feel guilty?

Don’t let the name fool you, Brookwood isn’t a Nordic fumble-and-forage eatery, but, instead, it’s a classy, high-end steakhouse oozing charm — as Lucinda O'Sullivan discovers on a ‘linner’ visit Brookwood is a new eatery on busy Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2.

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I can’t say I quite get the slightly rural name in the centre of the city, particularly as it is a sleek steak-and-seafood house, rather than of the Nordic fumble-and-forage style. But then it is an offshoot of the slightly wistful-sounding Mulberry Garden in Donnybrook.

One way or another, a lot |of dosh has been spent on decking out this tall building by way of lashings of wood, marble-floored landings, tan saddleback leather seating, swirly grey cement walls and great lighting features.

The ground floor is |a compact, bar-style grill with an open kitchen, where you can pop up on a high stool at |a shelf around the walls or, better still, grab a booth.

Upstairs, the main dining room is ‘classy clubby’, in |a style worthy of Somerset Maugham, with bevelled-mirror walls, 1940s-style little lamps on each table, |a back wall adorned with bottles and soda siphons, while a plantation-style fan keeps the temperature cool.

The restaurant opens at noon and runs throughout the day — a rather good idea, perhaps, with all those nearby hungry politicians who, tiring of their subsidised canteen fare, might need mid-afternoon nosh to revive them. In truth, late afternoon ‘linner’ suited my friend, Paul, and me very well, too.

Ensconced in a booth, we were offered a lunch menu and \[Lynda Black\]steak \[Lynda Black\]was </>perfectly executed. It’s a high-end, American-style steakhouse, but they do have something for everyone. I think it’s a winner.

Brookwood,
No 141 Baggot Street Lower,
Dublin 2.
Tel: (01) 661-9366
www.brookwooddublin.com

Three to try: steak & seafood

McLeary's
High Street, Waterford.
Tel: (051) 853-444
www.mclearys.ie

Style: Steak and seafood restaurant in the former Wine Vaults, with a warm and friendly atmosphere. From rib-eye steaks to seafood pie, fish 'n' chips to a seafood platter

Price: Mains, €14.95-€26; value menu €22 all evening

Try: Petite steak with crab claws – 4oz fillet of beef with crab claws in garlic butter, mashed potato and fresh vegetables, €23.50

Wine: From €22

Barracuda
Strand Road, Bray, Co. Wicklow.
Tel: (01) 276-5686
www.barracuda.ie

Style: An amazing location over the Sea Life Centre, with floor-to-ceiling windows and an outdoor terrace offering stunning views. Open from breakfast through lunch and dinner, with a large menu

Price: A la carte mains, €16-€29; value menu 2/3-course, €22/27

Try: 10oz Irish Angus chargrilled rib-eye steak – green beans, onion rings, peppercorn sauce, €22

Wine: From €22

Cornstore
40A Cornmarket Street, Cork.
Tel: (021) 427-4777
www.cornstorecork.com

Style: The Cornstore age their own beef for 28-35 days, with Himalayan salt, ensuring great steaks. You can also buy their great steak rub. From rib-eyes, sirloins and fillets to specialty aged cuts

Price: Mains, €17.95-€31.95; value menu three–course, €28.95

Try: Chateaubriand for two people, €27.95pp

Wine: From €23.95

www.lucindaosullivan.com

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