Saturday 3 December 2016

Barfly: The Exchequer

3 - 5 Exchequer Street, Dublin.
Tel: 01 6706787

Aingeala Flannery

Published 28/01/2011 | 05:00

Along with Wayne Rooney's right foot and Ricky Gervais' after-dinner patter, gastropubs are one of those English phenomena which tend not to travel well. They certainly haven't caught on here.

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This is why the arrival last year of The Exchequer -- central Dublin's first foray into this alien niche -- was a bit of an eye-opener.

Twelve months on and The Exchequer has proved a remarkable success, wooing the public with its emphasis on quality craft beers and a menu the right side of pretentious. As you would expect of the establishment where the Irish rugby team are known to repair for some post-match Heinos, the ambiance is self-consciously 'chic', though a long way from hip, with Hotel Costes-style chill-out parping louchely in the background and minimalist decor.

Like the best pubs, it seems to create its own micro-climate, too. Perhaps it was a trick of the light, but on a recent stop-off, the clientele all appeared perfectly groomed. It was as if you had entered a recession-free bubble.

For an opportunity to sup cheek by jowl with the beautiful people, The Exchequer can justifiably claim to be market leader.

Be warned, though: after a visit, you may be overcome by the urge to wear Ralph Lauren and smother yourself in hair gel. We're just saying.

IN THE GLASS: Pint of stout €4.50, pint of lager €4.80

ON THE STEREO: Chill out

AT THE BAR: Leinster fans

AND? Check out the menu at theexchequer.ie

Day & Night

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