Friday 23 June 2017

Barfly: L Mulligan

18 Stoneybatter, D7.
Tel: 01 6709889

Ed Power

Ed Power

Self-consciously grungy, but with a hipsterfriendly micro-brew menu, L Mulligan is the sort of boozer Dublin has been crying out for. In gritty Stoneybatter, it wears its history proudly.

Stained-glass dividers, old-school stools (albeit recently upholstered) and the welcome absence of TV screens conspire to usher you back to a simpler era. For all that, this is no museum piece — the menu of specialist brews is one of the most comprehensive we've seen (practically every Irish microbrewery is represented, including the wonderfully named Trouble Brewing) and the stereo pumps out a mix of Ben Folds Five, Smashing Pumpkins and Modest Mouse. For those who like their bars traditional yet urbane, Mulligan is worth the 20-minute stroll from town. Our only reservation? The many varieties of bangers and mash that dominate the food menu on Mondays and Tuesdays. Keeping it real is well and good — but who wants to pretend they are dining in a caf?

In the glass: Pint of stout €4.50, lager €4.50

On the stereo: 90s indie rock

At the bar: Middle-aged trendies

And? Bravo — L Mulligan is the first bar we've come across that posts its beer prices on its website.

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